Marvellous mil-specs: 3 great military-spec watches

James Robinson

Outfits change when the clock strikes five on Friday afternoon — suits, shirts, ties, leather shoes … all of it makes way for weekend savoir-faire. And if you’re the type of person who likes to get out amongst it at the weekend, whether it be hiking, mountain biking, 4WD … you name it, what you want attached to your wrist is a timepiece that not only looks the part, but can handle the rugged and demanding conditions. These three great military-spec watches perfectly meet that remit, and they’re also some of our favourites in the genre:

HAMILTON KHAKI PILOT PIONEER MECHANICAL

This Hamilton is one of the best examples of a vintage-inspired military watch we have seen in recent years. It draws inspiration from a watch produced in the 1970s for the British Ministry of Defence. Retaining the same shape as the original watch, the case flows seamlessly into the lugs, all confined within the original 36mm dimensions. The grained dial texture and creamy lume add additional flavour, making it a reissue with seldom paralleled historical accuracy.

Ref No: H76419931 / Case size: 36mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: H-50 / Price: USD$770

BREMONT S301

The aesthetics of the Bremont S301 offer the quintessence of a military-spec timepiece. And thanks to features like its highly legible, no-nonsense dial, rugged stainless steel case construction with DLC-treated case barrel, scratch-resistant ceramic bezel and 300 metres of water resistance, the S301 has the features to back up the bravado. Powering the utilitarian timepiece is Bremont’s effective BE-92AE mechanical self-winding movement, which offers up 38 hours of power reserve, and the watch is paired with a vintage-inspired brown leather strap, that complements the mil-spec style.

Ref No: S301 / Case Size: 40mm / Case Material: Steel / Movement: BE-92AE / Price: $5000

BREMONT BROADSWORD

In 2019, Bremont announced the HMAF (Her Majesty’s Armed Forces) collection, which saw three models debut in brand new case designs. The Broadsword is a three-handed automatic with the time and date. This clean look was clearly inspired by the “Dirty Dozen” watches of World War II. And while Bremont wasn’t around to support the forces at the time, this offering proves the company now has what it takes to make rugged, reliable timepieces for the highest level of the military.

Ref No: HMAF-Broadsword / Case size: 40mm / Case material: Steel / Movement: BE-95-2AV / Price: $4400