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Louis Moinet goes extraterrestrial with the Starman

Louis Moinet goes extraterrestrial with the Starman

Russell Sheldrake

The Louis Moinet Starman wasn’t shooting for the Moon, but it certainly feels as though its landed amongst the stars. Featuring sections from two different meteorites on the dial and a hand-painted display of the solar system on the caseback, this watch feels very much out of this world. But we have almost come to expect these things from Louis Moinet at this point, a brand that, thanks to its owner, is continuously connected with space and extraterrestrial material. Heck, this isn’t even the first time the brand has placed two different meteorites on a dial of one of their watches. All of this sits atop a complex and wonderfully finished tourbillon movement. But let’s dig into the details on this piece, and find out if it was rocket science, or mere horology.

The dial

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Quite literally the star of the show, the dial is where you would assume most of the action on this watch is – and there is certainly a lot to look at. The main attractions are the two sections of meteorite, with one forming the small black circle at 12 made from the Jbilet Winselwan meteorite that fell in the Western Sahara, and was found in 2013. What makes this space rock stand out is its high density of amino acids, known as the building blocks of protein. The stone’s deep black is punctuated by small spots of brown, giving the impression of a muted night’s sky in that tiny disc.

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To find the second piece of meteorite, you have to look behind all the other dial furniture to the very back where you find a slice of the recognisable Gibeon meteorite and its Widmanstätten pattern that has been tinted blue. While this is normally placed front-and-centre by brands, here Louis Moinet has decided to turn it into a backdrop for the night’s sky by placing a sapphire disc above it and speckling it with luminous paint that will glow along with the hands, minute track and logo at 12.

Amongst all of this, we have an aperture for the flying tourbillon at 6 that acts as a running small seconds thanks to the lumed arrow at its tip. More on this and the manufacture calibre LM139 later, but having it here helps visually balance the dial with the slice of Jbilet Winselwan above.

The case

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The Starman comes in either a rose or white gold case that measures a substantial 47.4mm across to help hold the double barrel movement inside. The case flank has the brand name inscribed on it (reminds me of what Blancpain does). It’s a slightly ostentatious touch, but one fans of the brand I’m sure will love. Every inch of the case is fully polished, making it a bit of a fingerprint magnet, but gives it a real shine when the light hits it. It also means that the notched and screwed bezel, which has angled sections to it, can catch the light differently as you move it around. The lugs have been skeletonised and appear to clasp the curved and polished sides of the case in their grasp, as they allow light to flow around it.

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The large crown that features the brand’s fleur de lis logo is super easy to manipulate, which makes the manual movement’s power reserve easy to top up. The back of the case is a full display caseback, allowing the hand-painted solar system to be fully admired. The miniature display is mounted on a black grid, and as standard is set to show the position of the planets on March 21, 2013. This is a meaningful date for Louis Moinet, as that was the day brand owner Jean-Marie Schaller unveiled to the world that the Louis Moinet, the man, was the true inventor of the chronograph. However, if you have a more significant date you’d like to commemorate on the back of this watch, Louis Moinet will be more than happy to oblige.

The movement

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The LM139 calibre is a bit of an impressive beast. Running a flying tourbillon with 96 hours of power reserve thanks to its two barrels that have been arranged in a “volte-face” configuration, meaning one barrel has been inverted to allow for a smooth and continuous and smooth flow of power. The movement can be seen through a tinted sapphire disc that sits below the miniature solar system, so the level of finishing and architecture can’t quite be fully admired. But we’re all here for the visualisations of space more than anything else, and the continually spinning flying tourbillon on the dial side gives you a glimpse of what the watchmakers at Louis Moinet are capable of.

The strap

Both the rose and white gold versions of the Louis Moinet Starman come on blue alligator leather straps with matching folding clasps that feature a large fleur de lis on the outside. This helps balance the weight of the large gold case while on the wrist.

The verdict

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There is a lot to see when it comes to the Louis Moinet Starman. The watch is big, unapologetic, and almost feels like you’re stepping inside a planetarium when you strap it onto your wrist. The glowing constellations on the dial are punctuated by sections of real meteorite, and a tiny solar system commemorating a meaningful date on the reverse. There is a lot to talk about before you even make it to the high horology involved in this watch. So as long as you have the wrist real estate to pull this size off and you constantly find yourself wanting to gaze at the stars, this might be the ideal watch.

Louis Moinet Starman pricing and availability

THe Louis Moinet Starman is limited to just 12 pieces per metal type. Price: CHF 160,000 (an extra CHF 6,000 for customisation). 

Brand Louis Moinet
Model Starman
Case Dimensions 47.4mm (D)
Case Material Red or white gold
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and rear
Dial Meteorite
Bracelet and strap Blue alligator
Movement LM139, flying tourbillon, manual wind
Power Reserve 96 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, flying tourbillon
Availability 12 pieces in each case metal
Price CHF 160,000