The new Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon is the brand’s first endeavour with the material
Zach BlassLaunched in 1968, the Ultra-Chron Diver ref. 7970 made history as the first diver’s watch to feature a high-frequency movement, according to Longines. Today, the new Ultra-Chron Carbon makes history as the first-ever watch from Longines to be equipped with a carbon case. This is an unexpected, but welcome follow-up, to the inaugural revival of the Ultra-Chron that made its debut in stainless steel in 2022.
In the video, Andrew unboxes the brand’s latest novelty, runs through its specifications, and shares his first impressions and live reaction to this carbon creation. For those too impatient to click through, you are probably wondering – beyond the significant first carbon case for Longines – what else has changed?
The new carbon case measures 43mm in diameter, just like the steel Longines Ultra-Chron. By our estimation, the lug-to-lug is effectively the same as the steel model’s 49mm measurement. The thickness of the case, however, has ever so slightly increased up to 14mm from the steel case’s 13.9mm thickness measurement. So, overall, the change in dimensions is negligible, keeping the watch as wearable as it has been before. The watch is also equally as water-resistant to the steel model, with a 300-metre depth rating secured by a titanium screw-down crown, but vastly lighter at less than 80 grams.
For its dial and bezel, the Ultra-Chron Carbon shifts to a more tactical monochromatic greyscale that makes the watch look more technical and futuristic. Instead of a black dial, the Ultra-Chron Carbon has a sandblasted anthracite dial with darkened applied indices and central hands, and instead of a red-accented, 60-second timing scale, the graduations change to grey with every fifth second being highlighted.
Here is where some buyers may take issue. The previous steel model has a unidirectional steel bezel with a sapphire-capped insert, whereas the new Ultra-Chron Carbon has a fixed titanium bezel with a less scratch-resistant aluminium insert. It looks great, but as a more future-forward design, it seems clashing to switch to an insert material of the past in place of a more modern ceramic or sapphire. It’s not so much a dealbreaker, but a fixed bezel instead of a unidirectional one is also not as faithful to the diver origins of the vintage model it was inspired by.
Inside, beneath a titanium caseback, you still have the Timelab chronometer-certified L836.6 movement. It’s a Longines exclusive, and a high-beat version of the automatic ETA C07.8XX family based on the ubiquitous 2824. It sports 52 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance-spring to better negate pesky magnetism that can threaten timekeeping. Understandably, the watch is not offered on a case-matching bracelet as the steel model is. Instead, it’s tactfully paired with a technical fabric strap with a crown-matching titanium buckle to secure the watch to your wrist.
So, while in many respects similar, there are some important differences to consider. First, the steel Ultra-Chron is more of an aesthetic tribute to the 1968 diver’s watch that inspired it, has a rotating, sapphire-capped bezel, and is available on a strap or bracelet, with a starting price of US$3,325. The Ultra-Chron Carbon, on the other hand, is more future-forward in its stealthy greyscale aesthetic, has a lightweight carbon midcase with a titanium structure that nets a weight of less than 80 grams, a fixed titanium bezel with an aluminium insert, and is priced at US$4,900 on a strap – US$1,875 more than the steel equivalent. It’s a notable step up in price, though on par with the price of carbon case watches at Longines’ level.
Ultimately, Longines fans will have to decide for themselves whether or not they are comfortable with the carbon premium. Subjective pricing qualms aside, I believe the Ultra-Chron Carbon is a handsome step forward for Longines, and I am eager to see how carbon plays a role in its other collections.
Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon pricing and availability
The Longines Ultra-Chron Carbon will be available beginning in January 2025. Price: US$4,900
| Brand | Longines |
| Model | Ultra-Chron Carbon |
| Reference | L2.839.4.52.2 |
| Case Dimensions | 43mm (D) x 14mm (T) |
| Case Material | Carbon case middle, titanium structure |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal |
| Dial | Sandblasted anthracite |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Strap | Black technical fabric strap, titanium buckle |
| Movement | L836.6, ETA C07.8XX base, high-beat automatic, Timelab-certified |
| Power Reserve | 52 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | January 2025 |
| Price | US$4,900 |