The new Longines Legend Diver 59 brings real diving pedigree back to the surface
Tom AustinBefore we dive into the new Longines Legend Diver 59, let’s take a step back. Over the decades, one challenge has remained central to watchmaking: creating a wristwatch capable of resisting water ingress while still functioning as a reliable tool in the very environments most likely to destroy it. It’s a pursuit that stretches back more than a century, and one that Longines has been deeply involved in since the 1910s. Over the decades that followed, the brand steadily refined its approach to water resistance, even working with the UK Hydrographic Institute to develop some of the first purpose-built diving wristwatches for Royal Navy divers.
Eventually, in 1959, came the watch that would become the Legend Diver, a model designed specifically for underwater exploration, featuring a revolutionary Super-Compressor case and an internal rotating diving bezel protected beneath the crystal, based on a system originally developed by Longines technicians in 1936. Now, after decades of further technical advancement, the Longines Legend Diver returns once again, combining cutting-edge technology with one of the brand’s most enduring designs.
The case
Looking at the Longines Legend Diver 59, you might think this is just a run-of-the-mill, vintage-inspired stainless steel dive watch, but don’t let its restrained looks deceive you. Longines hasn’t leaned towards modern proportions optimised for desk-diving here; instead, the new Legend Diver is a serious piece of equipment, dressed in clothes that hark back to the brand’s heritage. The standout feature of the case is the internal bi-directional rotating bezel, operated by the upper screw-down crown, which not only protects it from being inadvertently rotated when timing dives, but it actually makes the watch wear slightly smaller, bringing the bezel inboard as part of the dial under the crystal.
At 42mm wide and 12.85mm thick, objectively, the case is relatively large by today’s standards, but when you consider what it’s capable of, it’s easy to see why. Its stainless steel contours are styled and sized just like the old Super-Compressor cases from the 60s and 70s, which were groundbreaking at the time. Today, Longines has more refined ways of achieving significant water resistance, and while the new Legend Diver, on paper, has a water resistance rating similar to other divers at 300 meters, it’s how it gets there that matters. That thickness also includes the domed sapphire crystal, which means that while on the wrist, the case hugs it well, and it’s still a comfortable, compact wear.
The Legend Diver 59 is ISO 6425 certified as a diving watch, and while often these numbers and acronyms are relatively meaningless to most, when you look into what it means, it makes the Legend name a bit more fitting. First of all, to even be eligible for ISO 6425 certification, the watch needs to be water-resistant to at least 100 metres, have a unidirectional timing device, be legible at 25m in darkness, and meet a plethora of other requirements that we tend to take for granted these days.
To achieve the ISO rating, however, the watch has to work a little harder. For water resistance testing, watches need to achieve 125% of their rated depth, so for the Legend Diver, that’s 375 metres, up from its claimed 300 metres. They also need to experience rapid temperature changes: submerged in 40°C water, then 5°C, then back to 40°C, to test for thermal shock. The watches are then subjected to rigorous shock and magnetic resistance tests, condensation tests, static overpressure tests, and even tests that check for accuracy, water resistance, functionality, and bezel operation while fully submerged for approximately 50 hours. So it’s fair to say that the Legend Diver is quite far from your usual dive watch.
The dial
The neat thing about the internal rotating bezel is that it blends into the dial, rather than sitting on top like most divers. This is especially down to the fact that it shares the same black-grained surface finish, which gives the dial a distinctly vintage feel. The dial layout itself is largely unchanged from the several Longines Legends before it, all the way back to the original 1959 Super-Compressor. The key thing for the Legend Diver is legibility, so there’s no room for applied hour markers or anything unnecessary. If it’s not needed to meet the ISO standards, it’s not there.
There’s a printed combination of white and yellow Super-LumiNova markers that, when lit in darkness, switch to a combo of green and blue luminescent indicators and hands that help the watch meet the stringent standards for pro diving. Overall, the dial is a perfect blend of modern style while remaining faithful to the legendary watches it’s based on, even down to the heritage-style typefaces of the “Automatic” text and the heritage Longines logo.
The movement
Beneath the engraved, screw-down, solid case back sits the ETA-based, Longines-exclusive automatic calibre L888.6. It’s a relatively simple three-handed movement, but, as in the case it’s mounted in, it also meets strict standards to ensure accuracy and reliability. The L888.6 is COSC-certified and exceeds the ISO 764 standard for anti-magnetism by up to 10 times, thanks to its silicon balance spring. Perfect for everyday use, it delivers 72 hours of power reserve while beating at 25,200 Vph (3.5Hz).
The strap
We’ve seen a few iterations of the Legend Diver over the years, many of them on several different strap and bracelet systems. The latest Legend Diver 59 leans a little more into that vintage style, taking inspiration from a bracelet that’s proving rather popular at the moment. It comes on a stainless steel Milanese mesh strap which features a double-folding safety clasp and, interestingly, a micro-adjustment system, which you don’t tend to see on many Milanese straps. Included is a black rubber strap with a stainless steel diver pin buckle, should you wish to swap to something a little more casual and rugged.
The verdict
I’ve written endless articles about dive watches in the past, and I’m sure you’ve read even more. All too often, with dive watches, we look at water resistance as just a number on a dial. We immediately think that if it says 200 metres, then it must be waterproof, when strictly speaking, that’s not always the case. Many watches achieve a water resistance rating through case testing alone, or are considered a “dive watch” because they have a rotating bezel. To be clear, certifications such as ISO 6425 are not easy for manufacturers to obtain. The level of design, development, testing, teamwork and engineering ingenuity it takes to get a watch to that level is not to be dismissed, and that’s important for the Legend Diver 59.
It’s a watch with a long history of professional diving significance, so for this latest model to have a certification that gives definitive proof that, by definition, it is a professional dive watch capable of surviving the most stringent tests is a testament to Longines. Capability aside, the Legend Diver 59 looks the part, too; it oozes vintage style and sophistication, and its dive bezel doesn’t make it look like you want everyone to know what it is. And finally, it’s at a price point that arguably blows a lot of its competitors out of the water, quite literally.
Longines Legend Diver 59 pricing and availability
The Longines Legend Diver 59 is now available at Longines boutiques and through its retail network. Price: £3,550 / US$4,100 / CHF3,400
| Brand | Longines |
| Model | Legend Diver 59 |
| Reference | L3.795.4.59.9 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 12.85mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Black grained |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Bracelet | Milanese mesh stainless steel with double-folding safety clasp, additional black rubber strap |
| Movement | Longines calibre L888.6, automatic, COSC-certified |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | £3,550/US$4,100/CHF3,400 |