Longines updates the Hydroconquest with a smaller size and Milanese bracelet
Russell SheldrakeEvery brand needs a solid dive watch. And for Longines, ever since 2007, theirs has been the Hydroconquest. Solid, stainless steel construction with 300m of water resistance and a super legible display with a unidirectional bezel. Today, we have a new iteration of this staple of the brand’s catalogue as we get a refreshed look, new sizes and a slinky new bracelet to help update it for 2026.
Longines has built a reputation for its well-priced elegance, ensuring that every watch it releases feels a little more refined than the price tag would suggest, and that’s exactly what the tweaks to the Hydroconquest are all about. While these watches still retain all of their rugged attributes and don’t miss a beat when it comes to their toughness, they have been elevated in their sense of style and charm.
The case
So what is actually new here? Let’s start with the cases. We still have the tried and tested 42mm size, which is not going anywhere, but we now also have a 39mm that offers something that’s more mid-sized and perhaps a little more wearable on those of us afflicted with smaller wrists. The thickness stays the same across both, at 11.7mm, which means that the larger model proportionally can feel a bit thinner.
The cases are fully brushed across all surfaces, as I believe any good tool watch should be, which also decreases the visual impact that the case has when it’s on your wrist. The lugs on this feel very sleek and thin as they curve down to the wrist and are all built as one unit with the rest of the case. The solid, screw-down caseback now features a planisphere engraving with that winged Longines logo beneath. Of course, the case packs a real punch with the ability to go down to 300m, and this caseback and screw-down crown have a big part to play in that.
There are five bezel options available with this new line, giving you the option between blue, black, green, grey or a more vibrant shade of blue. Of course, this remains a fully ceramic bezel, but they have updated the font on the bezel to a thinner, and I think more readable one, and this theme of minimalisation can be seen across this watch.
The dial
Moving on to the dial, we have four dial options across the different case sizes. There is a blue, black or green lacquer or a light frosted blue that has been given a sunray finish. That light shade of blue was likely produced in a galvanic bath, so you can still see that finish underneath while the lacquer dials maintain their inky depth.
The dials carry over the simplification that we saw in the Hydroconquest GMT, so the chunky Arabic numerals are now gone; in their place are these 11 rhodium-plated applied hour markers that are filled to the brim with Super-LumiNova. This reduction in dial furniture and text makes these dive watches far more functional and easier to read at a glance as the diamond hour and sword minute hands glide across the dial.
Yes, you do still have a date window at three, and I will be placing myself fully on the side of pro-date window for this model. Adding functionality and executed in a way so that it works alongside the applied hour markers. To me, this does not disrupt the dial at all.
The bracelet
Next, we have to check out these two bracelet options. The H-Link option may appear familiar to fans of the brand, as we have already seen it on the GMT model introduced in 2023. A safe and sturdy option that feels right at home on a 300m diver.
But the novelty here is this new Milanese bracelet. Again, in full stainless steel, but it adds that touch of elegance that I was talking about before, which Longines loves to play with. To upgrade to the Milanese bracelet, it only costs an extra US$200, and that feels pretty spot on to me as you instantly elevate the look of this watch thanks to something that is much harder to produce at this level of quality.
The bracelet still feels solid as it is fairly thick, so don’t think you’re about to turn your 300m diver into a dress watch here, and it is still sized using links that are removed with screws. But both of these bracelets come with micro-adjustment in the clasp to ensure they fit comfortably all year round.
The movement
Inside this watch is an updated version of the L888 calibre that the brand has used for a few years now. The L888.5 still comes with 72 hours of power reserve, but now it has upgraded anti-magnetism built in, thanks to the silicone balance spring and other components that have been included that make it 10 times more resistant to magnetic forces than the ISO 764 standards require. Automatically winding, this is a movement that is exclusive to Longines but is based on an ETA calibre produced by the group’s resident movement developer.
The verdict
Overall, this update brings a lot to the table by making only small changes. These are refinements that have helped elevate this watch to better sit in the modern Longines catalogue. Offering a smaller case size while keeping the fan favourite of 42mm ensures a much wider audience will now consider this watch, and giving the option of this Milanese bracelet feels like a great move for those who are more desk divers than deep sea divers. And I’m talking from experience here, as a highly qualified desk diver myself.
Longines Hydroconquest (2026) pricing and availability
The Longines Hydroconquest is available now from the brand and its retailers. Price: US$2,200 (H-link bracelet), US$2,400 (Milanese bracelet).
| Brand | Longines |
| Model | Hydroconquest |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 11.7mm (T) x 48.1mm (LTL) 42mm (W) x 11.7mm (T) x 51.2mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres, screw-down crown |
| Dial | Blue, black, or green lacquer Frosted blue sunray finish |
| Strap | Stainless steel H-Link bracelet, double-folding safety clasp, micro-adjust Stainless steel Milanese bracelet, double-folding safety clasp, micro-adjust |
| Movement | Calibre L888.5, Longines-exclusive, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$2,200 (H-Link bracelet) US$2,400 (Milanese bracelet) |