Dissecting the three pillars of Longines and its “sweet spot” strategy with new CEO Patrick Aoun
Andrew McUtchenThere’s something special about sitting down with someone who genuinely loves what they do. When Longines invited me to come speak with its new CEO in the wake of a new Spirit collection launching, I had that pregame feeling; the sense that something significant was about to unfold. What I didn’t expect was just how much Patrick Aoun’s 18-year journey with the brand would reshape my understanding of where Longines stands today.
We met at Longines’ stunning new boutique in Zurich on the Bahnhofstrasse, housed in a beautiful 19th-century building. The space is impressive, with watches displayed in an intuitive, touchable way and a living garden at the back that feels like an oasis in the middle of the city. It’s one of the largest Longines boutiques in the world, and it sets the stage perfectly for a brand that’s quietly reasserting itself.
The three pillars of Longines watches
Patrick wasted no time getting to the heart of what makes Longines special. For him, it comes down to three main pillars: professional timekeeping, professional instruments for pilots and explorers, and elegance. But here’s what struck me: these aren’t disconnected categories. The expertise in professional timekeeping and creating instruments for aviators directly paved the way for innovative solutions in watchmaking.
Take the rotating bezel. Most people assume it started with dive watches. Not true. The rotating bezel came from Longines’ efforts with famed pilot Phillip Weems, and it was Longines that brought this innovation to the watch industry. Then there’s the flyback chronograph, invented in 1930 and patented in 1935. In 1936, a date collectors should remember, Longines launched the famous 13 ZN movement. Patrick painted a vivid picture of why this mattered: imagine flying over an ocean for three or four hours with no GPS, relying entirely on your instruments. Missing your timing by seconds could mean the difference between landing safely and ending up in the wrong place entirely. This wasn’t just about convenience; it was genuinely a matter of life and death.
The spirit of change
The new Spirit Pilot Flyback that Patrick was wearing perfectly encapsulates where Longines is heading. At 39.5mm with a thickness of just 13.4mm, it houses a Longines-exclusive movement that’s chronometer-certified, water-resistant to 100 meters, magnetic-resistant up to 10 times the ISO norms, with a transparent case back and a column-wheel chronograph. The proportions are spot-on: comfortable, wearable, refined.
What the Spirit collection has done is bring together worlds that previously felt disconnected. Our Creative Director, Marcus Flack, had always struggled with Longines, seeing too many disparate collections without a common thread. Tool watches with no luxurious elements sit alongside beautiful dress pieces. But the Spirit bridges these gaps. It has all the trimmings of a luxury watch, the finishing, the proportions, the attention to detail, while maintaining the toughness and storytelling of an authentic tool watch.
The “sweet spot” strategy
When I asked Patrick about navigating the Swatch Group’s brand hierarchy, sitting between Omega and Tissot, his answer was refreshingly candid. It’s not about being dictated to; it’s about making sense, complementing rather than competing. His mission is simple: dominate his lane.
Longines sits in what Patrick calls a “sweet spot”, delivering the best value for money with guaranteed quality and top movements at an unbeatable price point. A basic Spirit Pilot three-hand watch comes in under CHF 2,500. That’s accessible luxury done right. The strategy is smart: get someone wearing that entry piece, let them experience the robustness and durability, and years down the line, they’ll naturally graduate to a flyback at over CHF 4,000, or perhaps a 5 Hz Ultra-Chron.
Accessible excellence
Perhaps the most revealing moment came when I asked about the 13 ZN movement, one of the greatest chronograph calibres ever made, sitting alongside the Zenith El Primero in the pantheon of horological achievement, and why Longines has not sought to revive the calibre in the same manner the legendary calibre 321 was revived for a premium variant of the Speedmaster? Would this not be a clear path to justifiably step up into a higher price tier with an even more premium range?
Patrick’s response cut to the core of his philosophy. He’s not frustrated by the price positioning because it satisfies him that an average consumer can enjoy a piece of luxury. To him, luxury isn’t a price tag. It’s an experience. Why deprive certain customers of Swiss watchmaking at its finest just to chase higher margins? The humility in that answer was striking.
Looking forward
Patrick made several commitments about the future. Longines will always respect its heritage, that’s non-negotiable. The brand is moving toward slimmer, better-proportioned watches and retiring oversized, over-thick cases. The Spirit collection this year is just the beginning. All movements in the automatic sports collections, Ultra-Chron, Flyback, Pilot, Zulu Time, are Longines-exclusive, made by ETA with cutting-edge technology provided exclusively for Longines (something we’ve long referred to as “ETA but better”). It’s the advantage of being part of the Swatch Group, and Patrick has no intention of not leveraging that.
When pressed for one reference he wishes more people knew about, Patrick didn’t hesitate: the Ultra-Chron. The five-hertz movement, the cushion case, the authentic vintage design language, it’s a collector’s piece hiding in plain sight. As we wrapped up, surrounded by beautifully restored vintage Longines pieces in the boutique (yes, they’re now offering certified pre-owned), I felt something I hadn’t expected: relief. Finally, we have a CEO who understands both the technical depth and emotional resonance of this brand, who’s committed to honouring its history while making it relevant for today. Longines has always been on my radar. After this conversation, it’s locked in my sights.