LIST: 7 military-inspired watches that are destined for victory

Felix Scholz

In the world of vintage watch collection, ‘issued’ watches — timepieces that were supplied to military personnel — typically command a pretty penny, and brands with a history of producing timing instruments for armed services often lean on this heritage with military-inspired reissues. However, it’s not always so simple, as some brands are wary of glorifying conflict. Regardless of how the story is articulated, there’s no denying that the simple, clean and purposeful designs that so often characterise watches intended for military use is an attractive look, and not one that’s disappearing any time soon.

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

Hamilton is famous for its military watches, particular their simple, tough watches issued in the latter half of last century. It’s a legacy that lives on in their popular Khaki Field watches, and this 38mm, manually winding watch is one of the best we’ve seen in a long time. The dial is ultra-spartan, with an internal 24-hour track, vintage lume and nylon strap. But the real winner is the price. 450 CHF.

Omega Seamaster 1948 Small Seconds

Now this is a bit of a tricky one, as the Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition takes its design cues from the first Seamaster, a watch that was directly inspired by the lessons learned from the 110,000 watches supplied to the British Ministry of Defence. So it’s inspired by a watch that was itself inspired by military watches … if that makes sense. But there’s no denying its winning looks. $9000

Breitling Navitimer Super 8

Breitling is another brand with a rich history in military aviation, and this latest evolution of the Navitimer, the Navitimer Super 8, is an homage to a massive WWII-era stopwatch that was worn by bomber pilots. It’s a big, bold look, with its aggressively notched bezel and oversize crown.

Montblanc 1858 Chronograph

Montblanc plays down the miliary inspiration of its 1858 line, but it’s not too hard to see the link in the robust build, legible registers and bold numerals of this 1858 Chronograph. The collection is inspired by Minerva’s first military watch, but with looks this good we can definitely get behind their mountaineering angle. 3990 euro

Zenith Type 20 Chronograph Extra Special

The Type 20 is one of the most famous military chronographs out there, a watch made to a strict set of requirements by a number of brands, including Zenith, who have continued to evolve the line. And while this 45mm chunk of blue-dialled bronze is a little off spec, we’re down with the addition. $10,200

IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “150 Years”

IWC is another brand famous for its military-inspired pilot’s watches, and given that the brand is bringing out its greatest hits to celebrate 150 years, there were bound to be a few corkers in the mix. We really fell hard for this polar take on the Pilot’s chrono — a fresh take on the type, and a refreshing burst of blue in the hands. $7800

Panerai Luminor Due 42mm

From the skies to the sea. Panerai, long known for their ultra-masculine dive watches, prove that military chic isn’t an oxymoron with the slimmed down Due. While the Luminor Due’s case clearly has its roots on the wrists of naval divers, the look now is much more fashion forward, and the size, at 42mm, is friendlier to a wider range of wrists. I, for one, think it’s great that Panerai are moving out of their traditional comfort zone. $8700