Leica goes mid-sized with the new ZM 12
Russell Sheldrake- Leica iterates on its ZM 11 sports watch with the ZM 12, which boasts a smaller 39mm case.
- A slatted dial and Chronode-based movement are carried over, but the ZM 12’s calibre LA-3001 boasts a small seconds indicator.
- Four dial colours are available – dark green, white, chocolate brown, and blue – paired with either textile or rubber integrated straps.
Back at the end of 2023, Leica released a rather sleek, professional sports watch in the form of the ZM 11, which we got hands-on with earlier last year. To follow this up, the high-end cameramaker and emerging watchmaker has decided to bring out the ZM 12 with all the same design cues, but now in a 39mm case. To go with what appears to be a current trend in the industry of returning to these smaller sizes and making watches of all designs and functions accessible to those who struggle with large diameters, this shrinking follows a well-trod path that Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe took when releasing their first luxury sports watches, where they released the first edition in a larger or “jumbo” size and then brought us a small, mid-sized version.
But let’s dive into what we actually have here. The watch has changed very little in terms of real specs or visuals from the original ZM 11 (which is not a bad thing). The main two technical differences between the ZM 11 and this newer, smaller ZM 12 are that the latter features a small seconds indicator rather than a central seconds hand, and also does away with a date window.
However, we still get the same slatted dial that provides buckets of depth underneath a slightly domed crystal. This dial design carries a point of difference that I think helps link this watch to Leica and its photographic roots by making these slats radiate out from the middle, as they get thinner the closer you get to the case. This effect draws the eye into the wonderfully executed colours with a dark green, a crisp white, chocolate brown, and a vibrant blue that carries secret flashes of orange as you tilt the watch. This blue and orange combination in particular adds a nice touch of summery levity to this sporty design.
The case design has stayed pretty much true to form with a lot of brushed finishing, and short, angled lugs which allow this watch to sit nicely on the wrist without jutting out too far in any direction. Those lugs also feature Leica’s Easy-Change strap system, which is operated by the distinct red button on the underside of each lug. This means you can swap between the rubber strap, fabric strap, or silky-smooth integrated metal bracelet in a matter of seconds. There are two case metal options available for the ZM 12, just as there was in the ZM 11, with the majority of the models coming in stainless steel and the chocolate black dial imagined in grade 5 titanium. These options are great to have and offer a point of difference for those who are seeking it.
Inside we have the calibre LA-3002, which appears to have all the same specs as the movement that we had in the ZM 11, the LA-3001, and has similarly been developed by the good people over at Chronode. With an accuracy of -4/+6 seconds a day and a power reserve of 60 hours, I assume the main difference here is that it has been shrunk down to fit into this smaller case. It has been decorated to the style befitting this type of luxury sports watch, with a mixture of high-polish and graining throughout, all visible through the sapphire caseback and skeletonised Leica rotor.
Overall, this new release from Leica shows the brand’s awareness of what the watch market is after right now, which to me is a signal of how seriously they are taking this venture outside of their standard optics production. This fills me with great confidence in what they have to come as they continue to pursue their horological dream.
Leica ZM 12 pricing and availability
The steel Silver Grey, steel Olive Black, and titanium Chocolate Brown are available from Leica stores now, while the steel Blue Orange will be available from April 2025. Price: starting from US$6,800/£5,735
| Brand | Leica |
| Model | ZM 12 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 13mm (T) |
| Case material | Stainless steel or titanium (Chocolate Black only) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Silver Grey, Olive Black, Chocolate Black, Blue Orange |
| Bracelet and strap | Case-matching bracelet, butterfly clasp Rubber or Cordura strap, case-matching pin buckle |
| Movement | LA-3002, Chronode C102 base, automatic |
| Power reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Silver Grey, Olive Black, Chocolate Brown available now Blue Orange available from April 2025 |
| Price | Starting from US$6,800/£5,735 |