Laurent Ferrier celebrates 15 years with a beige twist on its founding model
Zach BlassDid you know that Laurent Ferrier makes only approximately 300 watches per year? Everyone familiar with the brand’s namesake is aware of his past history at Patek Philippe, so for him to step away from one of the watch world’s most prestigious brands, you know he needed to take things to the next level. Now, I mention the very limited annual production of the brand because it leads to what has made Laurent Ferrier a huge fan-favourite amongst watch connoisseurs: the very high level of horology and hand-finishing only a small production brand can afford to pull off with more time dedicated to each individual creation.
In recent times, where sportier watches often steal the limelight, most think of the Sport Auto when they think of Laurent Ferrier. But its latest new model is the Classic Origin Beige, designed to celebrate 15 years of the brand and the founding model that got it all started.
The case
At 40mm in diameter and 10.7mm thick, its proportions bring its traditional full-polished and rounded aesthetic into the present. With polished finishes darkening under intense direct light, when looking at the case head on, the 18k 5N red gold feels extra warm in hue, giving it a distinct hue that catches the eye differently than your more standard rose gold.
From the front, the lugs have what appears to be a longer presence, but they trick the eye, seamlessly flowing into the case for an ultimately more compact than you might expect 47mm span across the wrist. For a dress watch, a 47mm lug-to-lug span certainly puts it in the more modern, larger side of the spectrum for the category. But, this is a watch that bridges traditional roots with a more modern presence and aesthetic. And the lugs do have a soft curve that cambers around the wrist well.
The dial
A timeless dressy watch with a smart casual edge, its matte beige sectored dial brings more character than your standard, traditional, stark white or black and dares beyond the also common go-to blue. A clean time-only dial, the precious and polished case-matching signature spear-shaped hands convey the hours and minutes at its centre with a small seconds counter elegantly revealing the watch is mechanically alive at the 6 o’clock position.
A brown railway minutes track blends into the outer perimeter, with red accents injected to create a sensible pop that suits the 18K 5N red gold case. Most dress watches would have opted for a sunburst finish or a finish with more glistening surfaces. But Laurent Ferrier has opted for a matte, paper-like finish that, in its beige hue, feels almost like a scroll, evoking a sense of wisdom befitting the know-how of the brand.
The strap
In the same manner the dial is not shiny, the watch is wisely paired with a more subdued hand-sewn mocha nubuck leather strap with a tone-on-tone Alcantara lining. The texture of the nubuck suits the matte texture of the dial, and enhances the smart casual or, as Laurent Ferrier would say, the “timeless modernity” feel of the watch.
The overall aesthetic is by no means your black tie wristwatch; instead, it feels like the grail watch you would bring while cruising in a Jeep in Kruger National Park, decked out in your finest khaki wardrobe, while watching elephants and lions in the wild on Safari. Before you accuse me of painting the most random imagery, the Assegai handset and thin claw-like applied hour indices, and overall warm sandy hue of the watch are perhaps all elements that incepted my African Safari worldbuilding in my mind.
The movement
Inside, its manually-wound calibre also exhibits modernity – foregoing the traditional striping and perlage for a clean frosting on the top surfaces of its darkened bridges. This perhaps more sterile treatment offers strategic contrast, allowing the stunning, thick bevels to shine through – the polished and rounded edges clear signals of high hand-crafted decoration. Looking at the handsome handwound calibre, most would be content with its high finishing level and unfussed about a more standard endurance of power reserve. But at 80 hours, it is well beyond standard, eclipsing weekend-proof despite being decorated to the nines.
The verdict
I think this is a phenomenal new addition to the brand’s founding collection. Its rosy, sandy warmth was fittingly unveiled at Dubai Watch Week, and this cohesive warmth of a red gold case and a beige dial speaks to the more monochromatic sensibility that watch buyers find so hot right now. It somehow respects tradition very well without feeling dated, giving the classic dress watch a new skin that does not feel like your grandpa’s dress watch, yet is one he would want to take off your wrist and wear himself.
Nothing about this watch feels mass-produced or corner-cutting; each element is done to the highest standard. The beauty of quality over quantity. And considering the brand’s annual production, though the Classic Origin Beige is not a limited edition, owners of this watch will certainly be one of not many.
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Beige pricing and availability
The Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Beige is available now for purchase. Price: CHF 43,000 (excl. taxes)
| Brand | Laurent Ferrier |
| Model | Classic Origin Beige |
| Reference | LCF036.R5.BR5 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 10.7mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 18k 5N red gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Beige, opaline finish |
| Strap | Hand-sewn mocha nubuck leather strap, tone-on-tone Alcantara lining, 18k 5N red gold pin buckle |
| Movement | LF116.01, in-house, manual-wind |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 43,000 (excl. taxes) |