The Laine P37 reworks the Peseux 7001 and adorns it with stunning hand guilloché
Borna Bošnjak- Laine’s smallest watch yet combines the watchmaker’s lauded guilloché work with a number of hand-finished movement elements.
- Sized at 37mm, it’s all thanks to the legendary, slim Peseux 7001 that keeps it at just 8mm in height.
- It’s a limited edition of 99 pieces, with five dial finishes to choose from, priced at CHF 9,900.
Think of Torsti Laine, and the first thing your mind will go to is likely guilloché dials – and for good reason. Unlike the traditionally trained artisans like Voutilainen or Benzinger, Laine doesn’t come from a watchmaking background, instead using his computer science background to streamline watches made with traditional methods. The new Laine P37 maybe doesn’t have the most complex dials Laine makes – pieces like the V38 sport up to three different patterns – but it makes up for it in excellent proportions, stunning movement finishing, and unique colours and patterns.
So let’s start with the dials. There are five options to choose from, each with a different guilloché pattern and colour. All are pretty much as striking as any other, so the order I introduce them is not indicative of my preferences at all. The Salmon Spider does differ, though, as it’s the only one with a full index layout, rather than having Arabic numerals. The “spider” part of its name comes from the buzzsaw-like texture of the guilloché, which is exacerbated under any light, almost like some wild sunray brush, but better.
The Sky Blue Twill gets those aforementioned Arabic numerals for the events, executed in white gold, while the heat-blued syringe handset matches the Salmon Spider. The pattern here really does look like a fine fabric, and I really appreciate the minimal branding below the printed sub-seconds.
Okay, I did say that I won’t be playing favourites, but I do have to give a subtle nod to the P37 Ocean Blue Diamond. Here, Laine goes with white gold for the numerals and a matching white metal for the hands (though unsure if white gold, as it’s not specified), against a stunning three-dimensional backdrop of interlocking rhombi. I’m usually a sucker for heat-blued steel, but there’s just something about the rounded feature of the hands and Breguet numerals that works so well in a silver finish.
If you’d prefer blue on silver rather than silver on blue, go for the P37 Silver Grain. It employs a fairly traditional rice grain guilloché pattern, with a full set of heat-blued Arabic numerals and hands. The colour is perhaps not as vibrant as some of the other models on the list, but the size of the watch and choice of typeface works for a traditional look.
And speaking of peak vibrancy, the Murasaki Flame takes that accolade. The swirling engine-turning looks to me like a softer variant of the jagged spider guilloché, with Laine noting the transition between blue and purple as the highlight of this dial, though it seems like this effect is not easily shown off in a still photo.
Not taking anything away from the wonderful dials, the 37mm case of the Laine P37 sports a fully polished, no-frills finish. While there’s absolutely nothing wrong with it, it almost seems a little pedestrian compared to the dials, and I’d appreciate a signature touch or two that would really distinguish it from a simple microbrand case. Dimensions are excellent, with a slim height of just 8mm, and a respectable 50 metres of water resistance, though I doubt too many people will be putting that to the test.
What I can complain little about is the movement Laine chose for the P37. The architecture is clearly recognisable as a Peseux 7001, but nearly all the structural components have been replaced for in-house manufactured and decorated ones. The two-thirds bridge is new, sporting a rose gold and guilloché finish, while the balance and escape cocks feature black polishing. There’s no change to the base specs – the 7001 beats at 3Hz for up to 42 hours, and is wound manually – but that’s not why you’re buying this watch.
Laine P37 pricing and availability
The Laine P37 is available for orders, with first deliveries scheduled for January 2025, and limited to 99 pieces. Price: CHF 9,900 (~US$11,200)
| Brand | Laine |
| Model | P37 |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 8mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Hand guilloché, five different patterns, heat-blued elements Salmon, ocean blue, sky blue, blue purple, silver |
| Bracelet and strap | Leather strap, steel pin buckle |
| Movement | In-house modified Peseux 7001, hand-winding |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | 99 pieces |
| Price | CHF 9,900 (~US$11,200) |