Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics)
Zach Blass- The new ref. Q389256J is the third-ever Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph and the first-ever limited edition.
- Its case, striated dial, movement bridges, applied indices, and pin buckle are all made of 18k rose gold.
- The watch comes with two bundled straps, is limited to 250 pieces, and is priced at US$66,000.
When the Jaeger-Lecoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph first came out at Watches and Wonders 2023, it was arguably the watch of the fair. Our Instagram reel and coverage garnered very high traffic, and those of us on the ground at the time couldn’t stop talking about it. In short, it’s a hot watch. But since its launch in April of 2023, there have been just two models: a stainless steel variant with a blue dial, and an 18k rose gold variant with a black dial. Today, the third-ever modern Reverso Tribute Chronograph makes its debut, and this full pink gold reference Q389256J is also the first limited-edition model to enter the range.
By all pink gold, I don’t just mean all pink gold-toned. This Reverso takes things to the next level with a case, dial, movement bridges, applied indices, and pin buckle all forged in solid 18k rose gold. An Art Deco icon, this Reverso leans into that sensibility and heritage with its front dial decorated with laser-engraved horizontal lines that match the rectilinear nature of the case perfectly. The way the black minute track provides some gilty contrast… *chef’s kiss*. The lines of the dial make the pink gold really dynamic under light – as you can see from my photos above, under the same lighting conditions, just the smallest tilt can make the dial appear vastly different. In certain instances, the polished surface looks gold with black lines, and in others, the inverse – it’s a very well-executed pattern.
Gold hands and indices are nothing new to the range, but for the first time in this collection, the movement bridges are made of rose gold too (rather than rhodium-plated brass as is common practice). Not only does it look very luxe, but it also feels very luxe on the wrist – the added precious metal of the dial and calibre create a very pleasant feeling of heft.
In a manner fitting only the Reverso, you can keep things clean with just the hours and minutes displayed on the front, and when you want to use the chronograph or simply go full watch geek and appreciate all of the inner workings. To do so, flip the carriage to reveal the second dial that has its hours and minutes hands linked to the front, with an added central chronograph seconds hand and a retrograde 30-minute counter. The solid gold bridges are beautifully striped and bevelled, and I loved watching the column wheel engage with each depression of the start/stop pusher.
The one point of contention I’ve heard about the design of the Reverso Chronograph (and one I hold myself) is the size. For a chronograph, the 11.14mm thickness is a commendable effort. The 49.4mm lug-to-lug length, however, gives this dressier watch big wrist presence – especially as a rectangular design. By no means will the case wing out beyond the extremes of an average wrist, but it can take some getting used to in terms of seeing a Reverso of this size. For reference, the original Reverso Chronograph Retrograde introduced in 1996 was 3.9mm smaller in width (26mm) and 1.64mm thinner (9.5mm), but also 7.4mm less lug-to-lug (42mm). That said, its in-house Calibre 829 had a 40-hour power reserve when compared to the 52 hours of the new Calibre 860.
The ’90s model also didn’t have the benefit of being bundled with two Casa Fagliano leather straps – a tan calf leather and a black alligator. It’s easy to swap between the pair with an interchangeable system for not only the straps but the rose gold pin buckle as well.
What will ultimately confuse some is the price difference between the standard rose gold model from 2023, and this new limited edition. The 2023 model is priced at US$38,800, while the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph Q389256J jumps up 1.7 times – to US$66,000. The biggest differentiator here is the amount of gold. The non-limited model doesn’t have a solid gold dial, nor bridges crafted in gold. The increased gold weight and limited nature of this new release has led Jaeger-LeCoultre to price the Q389256J more enthusiastically. On paper, it may seem too expensive, and some could find the vague “one of 250” engraving as JLC being conservative in case the watches do not sell out quickly.
Pricing aside, my conundrum with the model remains the same. I absolutely love the look and the movement, and this new model is definitely my favourite of the three, overtaking the steel to take first place. Its 49.4mm lug-to-lug span, however, alienates wrists like mine. I wear watches that are technically larger in that dimension, but the flat, rectangular profile naturally wears and feels larger. But holy smokes, do I wish I had a bigger wrist (and wallet).
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Q389256J pricing and availability
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Q389256J is available now as a limited edition of 250 pieces. Price: US$66,000
| Brand | Jaeger-LeCoultre |
| Model | Reverso Tribute Chronograph |
| Reference Number | Q389256J |
| Case Dimensions | 29.9mm (W) x 11.14mm (T) x 49.4mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal, front and back |
| Dial | 18k rose gold, laser-engraved (front) 18k rose gold, open (reverse) |
| Strap | Fagliano tan calf leather and black alligator leather, rose gold pin buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 860, in-house, manually wound |
| Power Reserve | 52 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes (front) Hours, minutes, retrograde chronograph (reverse) |
| Availability | Limited to 250 pieces |
| Price | US$66,000 |