Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra-Thin Date demands a rethink of the GADA label
Jamie WeissYou may have heard of the acronym GADA used for watches. It stands for ‘Go Anywhere, Do Anything’ and typically refers to stainless steel sports watches with inoffensive designs and proportions that, as the moniker suggests, suit all manner of activities. But that’s just it: most watches given that GADA label are sports watches of some description. While these days (particularly in Australia), you can get away with wearing sporty watches to even quite formal occasions, we often don’t think about the inverse – that is, wearing dressy watches for more casual activities. This brings me to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest take on the Master Ultra-Thin Date, which features a striking blue-grey dial. I had the chance to wear it for a day, after which I’ve become convinced that it too deserves to be considered a GADA watch, in an unconventional sense.
What’s in a dial colour?
While this Master Ultra-Thin Date model has been out for 5 years now, this new ref. Q1238480 features a dial colour not yet seen on a JLC: a stunning blue-grey gradient. It’s somewhat similar to the blue dial of the current Reverso Chronograph in stainless steel, but it’s not quite as icy. It’s got more of a slate quality to it. It’s extremely contemporary and compelling: you might think I’m getting very excited about yet another blue dial but it’s not your average blue dial! It’s just so dapper, yet oddly unpretentious. Believe me when I say that this dial colour is enough to make this watch newsworthy.
It’s worth pointing out that this blue-grey hue isn’t quite as grey as JLC’s press imagery and online renders suggest. After having it on my wrist, I’d say it leans more blue than grey (even our photos don’t quite capture it), so keep that in mind if you’re a potential customer. However, it’s got enough grey in the mix to set it apart from other blue dials, and it’s this dial that marks this JLC as something unique.
Thin for the win
While the 2020s has seen the title of the world’s thinnest mechanical watch pass hands several times, I think it’s fair to say that these days, thin mechanical watches aren’t quite as in vogue as they were in the mid-20th century. Again, we’re all a bit obsessed with sports watches: if you’re shopping at the low to middle end, there are increasingly few thin mechanical watches that are in vogue. Indeed, except at the high-end, most watchmakers don’t seem overly preoccupied with keeping their watches thin.
In that sense, the Master Ultra-Thin Date is quite refreshing, because it is indeed quite slim at 7.8mm. Yes, there are thinner watches on the market and around this price point, but it really feels proper thin on the wrist… This sounds like a dumb thing to say, but some ultra-thin watches don’t wear as thin as their measurements might suggest because many are quite plate-like in their construction. On a related note, some thin watches also feel quite flimsy; snappable like communion wafers. The gently swooping lugs and thin caseback of the Master Ultra-Thin Date mitigate these problems, however: it feels airy yet confidence-inspiring on the wrist.
More than just a pretty face (but we like that pretty face)
A watch’s chunkiness is largely a factor of its movement, but the movement that helps the Master Ultra-Thin Date, JLC’s in-house calibre 899, isn’t just impressive because it enables this thinness. (It’s 3.3mm, for the record.) It’s also impressive because of the way it’s finished, with lovely broad côtes de Genève, chamfering, perlage and blued screws. It is also subject to JLC’s rigorous 1,000 hours control process, giving owners piece of mind. The dial is pretty, the movement is thin and pretty, basically.
A point of criticism I have for this movement and really my main point of criticism for the watch is that it only has a 38-hour power reserve. Something I do respect, however, is that JLC has colour-matched its date wheel. So one of my main bugbears addressed and the other remains. (It must be noted that there are actually a few different versions of the Calibre 899 and other versions such as the 899AC claim significantly greater power reserves. Alas, this watch doesn’t have that version of this movement.)
Closing thoughts
To tie a bow on my thesis about redefining the GADA label, the JLC Master Ultra-Thin Date is the horological equivalent of a smart pair of jeans – think Japanese selvedge denim with a relatively slim cut. Or perhaps a pair of navy blue chinos. Bear with me here. In the same way that you can throw on a blazer and shirt with some smart jeans and look quite professional, it’s just as easy to combine them with a white T-shirt and sneakers to dress down. This Master Ultra-Thin Date is capable of the same versatility, and only partly because it too has a blue hue!
Sure, it’s not a conventional GADA watch in that an alligator strap and a 50-metre water resistance rating means you’re probably not jumping in the pool or playing a game of football with it, but that charming blue dial perfectly straddles the line between dressy and casual. It’s also by no means boring, with the glorious sunburst and delightfully finished movement providing just enough of an edge to make it stand out from other blue-dialled dress watches.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Date pricing & availability
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Date with a blue-grey dial is available now from all Jaeger-LeCoultre retailers. Price: US$9,550, A$15,400
| Brand | Jaeger-LeCoultre |
| Model | Master Ultra-Thin Date |
| Reference Number | Q1238480 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 7.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Sunray-brushed blue, rhodium-plated hour-markers |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| Strap | Black alligator leather, steel double folding buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 899, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$9,550 A$15,400 |