All black everything for the new IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium
Borna BošnjakJust as the inevitable calm before the equally inevitable storm of Watches and Wonders approaches, IWC is treating us to one of the more unexpected releases of the year. Thus far, the delineation of their collections was simple – the Pilot’s Chronographs and Ingenieurs are the sporty steeds of the stable, and they get all the avant-garde materials that IWC has developed over the years. On the other hand, the Portugiesers and Portofinos were reserved for elegant occasions and novel complications. Today, however, that line blurs, as IWC presents the blacked-out Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium.
The case
Let’s start with the coolest part of this new Portugieser Chrono, and that’s the 41mm Ceratanium case. This titanium alloy is cooked up just for IWC, and combines the lightweight properties of the metal with the scratch-resistance normally offered by ceramic, thanks to a secret kiln-baking process. Another added benefit is that it’s black without the need for any coatings, so no worrying about PVD or DLC damage. Other than a material change, the case remains the same, including the relatively tall 13mm thickness and relatively low 30-metre water-resistance. These aren’t by any means dealbreakers, but I’ll always be a proponent of slimmer cases and versatile depth ratings.
On the wrist, a steel Portugieser Chronograph usually has a reassuring heft thanks to the large(ish) case and movement. In Ceratanium, it’s a completely different experience, which I expect will also change the usually dressy connotations of the model.
The dial
The dial is where this new Portugieser really took me by surprise, though I really shouldn’t have been. Looking at the brand’s existing line-up of Ceratanium watches – namely the Pilot’s Chrono 41, Double Chrono, and Big Pilot’s QP in the same material – will reveal tonal dials. One marked difference is that all of those are distinctly matte, with grey printing, whereas this Portugieser fully commits to a black finish that hides most of its features.
Needless to say, this one won’t win any legibility prizes, but just like any black-on-black-on-black watches (à la that Omega Seamaster Diver 300), the eggs are fully in the “doing it because it’s cool” basket. There is some azuraged texture on the sub-dials at 6 and 12 o’clock, and the soft, highlighted reflections of the leaf hands and Arabic numerals give away their presence against an otherwise jet black backdrop.
The strap
Surprisingly, IWC changes the colour scheme with the strap – just kidding. The Ceratanium Portugieser gets a textured rubber strap, fitted to the curvature of the case, a nice touch, as well as a Ceratanium pin buckle, which is another nice touch.
The movement
The smoked sapphire caseback lets you know how limited this watch is, but also dims the view of the 69355 calibre inside. The movement was a welcome upgrade over the ETA Valjoux 7750 that powered its predecessors, building on a similar architecture but improving the oft-wobbly rotor and integrating a column wheel for smoother operation, while also bringing production to ValFleurier, Richemont’s own movement maker. The stats are what you’d expect from a luxury, mass-produced calibre standard: 4Hz beat rate and a 46-hour power reserve with industrially, but pleasantly applied striping and perlage.
The verdict
Watches like this are exceedingly difficult to deliver a verdict on. Traditionally, the Portugieser has been a stalwart of elegance, and despite its large cases (thanks to historical precedent), its modern iterations always steered quite clear of sportiness (save for some Yacht Club models). This new Ceratanium model merely fuels my suspicions of black watches becoming a bit of a micro-trend, and imbues the Portugieser line with a distinct sportiness I don’t recall it ever having.
The use case here is admittedly niche, as I doubt anyone will be looking for a pseudo-dress watch with a totally blacked-out colourway, but does that even matter? The Portugieser collection is very well-rounded, so anyone looking for a traditional take on the model won’t feel slighted. A limited run that’s niche enough without warranting a wider release, but does more than just change the colour of the sub-dials, is always welcome in my book.
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium pricing and availability
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium is a limited edition of 1,500 pieces. Price: A$24,200
| Brand | IWC |
| Model | Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium |
| Reference Number | IW371631 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 13.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | Ceratanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Convex sapphire front, smoked sapphire back |
| Dial | Black dial, black hands, black indices |
| Strap | Black rubber strap, Ceratanium pin buckle |
| Movement | Calibre 69355, IWC manufactured, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph |
| Availability | Limited to 1,500 pieces |
| Price | A$24,200 |