This new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 debuts the model’s first-ever bracelet
Zach BlassIWC’s best-known offerings are undoubtedly its Pilot’s and Pilot’s Chronograph watches, and its Ingenieur collection. While they certainly have a mastery of bolder expressions with colourful ceramics, for example, IWC also practices refined minimalism in its out-of-the-spotlight Portofino. As a dress watch segment, any brand’s sportier pieces are often more discussed, but the new IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 that has just debuted at Watches and Wonders Shanghai 2024 aims to bridge the worlds of dressy and sporty with the first-ever bracelet for the model, giving the design a sense of casual elegance more suited for daily wear.
The case
Known for its larger diameters, IWC has done a great job as of late in terms of introducing more compact versions of its watches. The Portofino recently debuted a new 39mm size that will speak to those who prefer a mid-size sweet spot. This newer and more compact Portofino case also upped its depth rating to 50 metres, meeting a water-resistance level most consider a minimum for a daily wearer. While it has increased its robustness, the case remains in a full mirror-polished finish to maintain the elegant vibes typically associated with the Portofino line.
The dial
The dial also retains Portofino signatures, with a clean and crisp silver-plated surface that maintains minimalism. With zero lume, thin applied indices with peeking Roman numerals, along with leaf-style hands, the dial and case on its own do not depart from the Portofino’s dress-watch sensibilities. It may not be an IWC Pilot’s design, but the brand’s prioritisation of legibility is equally upheld. That is unless you’re going to be a stickler and point out the lack of visibility in darkness without the presence of SuperLuminova. Recessed dial counters at 12 and 6 present an IWC point of difference, as most brands would reverse the position of the dial text and the counters. The look has always given me a sort of marine chronometer vibe. At 12, you have a 30-minute totaliser, and at 6 a small seconds counter, with no date window squeezed in at a strange position. Again, crisp and classy.
The bracelet
It may seem silly to some that the introduction of a bracelet would make such a world of difference visually and categorically. If I’m being honest, I would forgive anyone looking at strictly the case and dial for not realising this is a new novelty – a casualty of the collection’s minimalism and this model’s silver dial perhaps. But through this new Jubilee-style bracelet and its alternating finishes, the introduction of a brushed finish into the mix inserts a sense of casual flair. I’m not suggesting this makes the Portofino cockpit-ready, but it does take it out from beneath the sleeve of a suit and comfortably places its aesthetic in line with a country club brunch. If you want to wear this Portofino Chronograph on a strap, it’s totally doable and easy to swap between thanks to two quick-release pins on the underside of the bracelet. I also want to shout out its use of a butterfly-style clasp, as I often find this style of clasp allows people to find a more centred fit on their wrists.
The movement
Exhibited inside is the IWC-manufactured automatic calibre 69355, which, according to IWC, is wrongly attributed to have lineage with the tried-and-true ETA 7750. Either way you want to slice it, the 69355 does not share the same components or dimensions as a 7750. Ultimately, the 69355, based on the IWC-manufactured 69370, strips the dial indications down to a 30-minute totaliser and small seconds – no date, nor hour totaliser. It’s a column-wheel chronograph, which provides crisp start/stop actuation and is nicely, albeit industrially, decorated to a level worthy of exhibition. Perhaps its only Achilles heel in a modern watch marketplace is its 46 hours of power reserve, with many looking to see more weekend-proof calibres.
The verdict
With its curved and cambered lug profile, the IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 presents a casual-dressy timepiece that can be suited and booted, or dressed down. With its no-fuss dial layout and colour, it will resonate with those who have come to terms with the fact they are not explorers of the sky or ocean, and recognise what they ultimately need is a handsome watch suited for the office and relaxing weekend adventures. If you already liked the Portofino, then you hardly need to be sold on its proposition, but those on the fence stand to be tipped over into the intrigued side of the spectrum with its new first-ever bracelet.
IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 pricing and availability
The IWC Portofino Chronograph 39 IW391503 is available now for purchase. Price: US$8,400, A$12,300
| Brand | IWC |
| Model | Portofino Chronograph 39 |
| Reference | IW391503 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 13mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Silver-plated |
| Bracelet | Steel bracelet, butterfly clasp, quick-release |
| Movement | IWC 69355, IWC-manufactured, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$8,400 A$12,300 |