The IWC Ingenieur 35mm is an androgynous powerhouse
Buffy Acacia- The IWC Ingenieur has been faithfully shrunk to 35mm, making it more wearable without any loss of character or specifications.
- Three initial references include black or silver dials in stainless steel, or one entirely in 18k 5N red gold.
- The 9.4mm total thickness is impressive considering 100 metres of water resistance and an automatic time-and-date movement.
The only complaint with a degree of validity about the whole integrated bracelet trend is that they tend to make watches wear larger. In a time where smaller watches are becoming more popular year on year, that can be a problem, because many enthusiasts are fixated on lug-to-lug distances above all else. The Ingenieur has been a particularly popular collection for IWC since its redesign in 2023, taking more design cues from the original Gérald Genta design from 1976, but even its 40mm case tends to feel quite bulky on the wrist. If you have felt that way, ignore everything to do with case measurements and try this new 35mm, part of the brand’s W&W 2025 collection, on your wrist. It solves everything.
As much as collectors have been leaning towards sub-40mm sizes in recent years, it’s rare that a brand as big as IWC has dared to drop below 38mm without labelling that release a women’s watch or at least decorating it with diamonds. The IWC Ingenieur has needed no such redesign or accommodations to compensate for a “loss of masculinity,” it’s simply a smaller-cased Ingenieur that will suit any smaller wrist. The effect is immediately wonderful, and there’s no sense that it wears as small as something like a 35mm vintage dress watch. After all, this is still a sports watch with 100 metres of water resistance and an attitude of sophisticated toughness. It’s only 9.4mm thick in total, but it maintains a strong wrist presence in balance with a comfortable wearing experience.
Of course, shrinking a watch is not as simple a task as it sounds. Ensuring that the finishing of the case and dial was a perfect adaptation of the 40mm models required lots of care, but you can see the execution is flawless. The way the light catches the applied indices and the dial’s grid patterns is hypnotic, as is the way it rolls down the polished and brushed links of the integrated bracelet. The bezel still sells the ‘porthole’ aesthetic, keeping things true to the ‘70s spirit without feeling overly dated or kitschy. The crown guards also sell its impression of sportiness, as well as protect it from accidental bumps if wearing it while active.
Three references have been made available for the first launch of the 35mm cases, with the first two in stainless steel and either a black or silver coated dial. These two are the most accessible models, and they’re such characterful pieces despite their versatility. There’s also a reference in solid 18k 5N red gold, whose heft can’t be understated. It’s a little baffling how well the Ingenieur seamlessly transitions into a jewellery watch, but the level of detail on the dial is incredible when rendered in shining gold. It packs some serious punch for a watch that’s on the small side, but it’s that restraint which I believe makes it so special. It’s powered by the automatic Calibre 47110 which needs no bells or whistles thanks to a date display, 42 hours of power reserve, and a 4Hz beat rate.
IWC Ingenieur 35mm collection price and availability
The IWC Ingenieur 35mm collection is available now. Price: US$9,950 (steel), US$37,500 (18k gold)
Brand | IWC |
Model | Ingenieur 35mm |
Reference | IW324903 IW324901 IW324906 |
Case Dimensions | 35mm (D) x 9.4mm (T) |
Case material | Stainless steel 18k 5N red gold |
Water Resistance | 100 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Silver, black, or gold grid dial |
Bracelet and strap | Stainless steel or 18k 5N red gold bracelet |
Movement | Calibre 47110, automatic |
Power Reserve | 42 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
Availability | Available now |
Price | US$9,950 (steel) US$37,500 (18k gold) |