If you’ll pardon the pun, Moser pioneered the development of elegant, perpetual calendars with their subtle Endeavour, which saw the month displayed using a short hand, mounted on the central pinion, and using the 12-hour markers as surrogates for the months of the year.
Well, this model, the Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, sees the brand change gears a little, steering the complication into more legible territory. Gone is the central hand, with the month indicator now occupying a prominent aperture next to the extant date window at three. The increased legibility certainly adds some visual weight to the right-hand side of the dial, which is partially offset by the power reserve at nine (bonus points for using the same typeface as the date/month wheels on the reserve indicator). The vertical axis design features are the printed brand up top, and the hefty sub-seconds down the bottom — with nice circular graining details.
And because this is a Pioneer, you get a steel case, and luminous pops on the dial and those semi-open hands. The case is big at 42.8mm across, excluding the grippy conical crown. There are two dials on offer — a very interesting burgundy fumé that has decidedly aubergine overtones to my eyes, or a more familiar Funky Blue. The former option eschews the Pioneer’s large applied numerals for a slightly cleaner look, which lets the interesting dial colour shine. On the rear you can’t miss the HMC 808, complete with its handy leap year indicator.
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar price
H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Dual Window Perpetual Calendar, $63,150