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INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement

INTRODUCING: The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is like a kick-ass Milgauss / Explorer hybrid with a killer quartz movement

Thor Svaboe

Is this the perfect everyday tool watch from the Zaratsu wizards? I am seriously baffled by the Grand Seiko SBGX343. This seems to be nothing less than a dynamic amalgamation of our favourite design traits from Grand Seiko and a prominent Swiss crowned supplier of largely unavailable cyclopsed divers’ watches. Our Japanese friends have managed to pull this feat off without a hint of homage, while exuding a wholesome daily watch-vibe with contemporary wrist presence. To top it off it is powered by the quartz perfection of their 9F61 calibre.

Grand Seiko SBGX343
Image: seiyajapan.com

The case is recognisable from the sporty SBGV243, characterised by its purist tool image and yellow popping details and stitches on the fabric strap. This, however, is pure monochrome, and could be touted as Grand Seiko’s answer to the Explorer and Milgauss in one, but within a much sharper, tough-as-hell angular case. I can stare at that case side/lug transition for hours – a beautifully horizontal brush on the case side that ends in a hallelujah-inspiring drilled lug end, a lug that has an impossibly perfect crease where it swoops down, creating an incredible dynamic where it meets the polished bevel of the top of the case. A narrow band of brushed steel is encircled within one of my favourite bezel designs with a wide Zaratsu polished bevel and a broad vertically brushed top with the sapphire crystal being only a millimetre or so taller. All this goodness only results in a mere 11.7mm thickness, one of the svelte, inherent pros of the 9F quartz movement.

Grand Seiko SBGX343

The dial is pure functional matte black, and here’s where the Milgauss connotations come in, with double red (this’ll be worth a fortune in 50 years) text bringing a welcome flash of colour and decreeing a magnetic resistance of 40,000 A/m. The Explorer-ish effect on me is from the pure brilliance of the simple dial with broad perfect indices that will tug at every watch fiend’s heartstrings, sword hands and needle seconds. What else? Well, there’s no obtrusive date window, a neat rehaut minute track and then, frankly, what else do you need? 

Grand Seiko SBGX343
Image: seiyajapan.com

The bracelet is a pure and tight three-link oyster-ish job in 316L steel, with the added benefit of the madly obsessive detailing every Grand Seiko part becomes infused with. There are no micro adjustments on the clasp – which might be the only slight minus – but the links and half links are quite short, so it’s worth it for the simple accuracy and slim build of this bracelet. A slender 20mm lug width ensures comfort here and, coupled with the ergonomic shape of the exquisitely finished angular case, it drapes the wrist with confidence. And yes, that 4 o’clock position of the crown really is that much better for comfort.

Grand Seiko SBGX343
Image: seiyajapan.com

So far so monochrome, minimalist and ABC tool watch. But then the lights go off, and what the hell … Not satisfied with the lighthouse-like beaming of Lumibrite lume, we have a duo-colour scheme. With a light green on the hands, 3-6-9 and broad 12, and a fresh light blue on the rest, it’s a cheeky touch in a tough Grand Seiko built for everyday wear. So that’s a solid 10 points for the dial.

Grand Seiko SBGX343
Image: seiyajapan.com

Under the closed back lies the excellent 9F61 quartz movement. Unlike most standard quartz movements that are accurate to about 15 seconds per month, the 9F series calibres are accurate to a stonking 10 seconds per year. The design has extra torque emphasised, so that larger, more impressive hands can be used. There is a special system that makes sure the seconds hand is utterly stable as it moves, preventing the slight “wobble” you see from cheaper quartz movements. The 9F movements are also designed with very long service intervals, and a battery time indicated to around three years. As a tough, no-nonsense blend, this SBGX343 once again will make many of us reconsider the humble quartz, and for good reason. This is one of the best everyday tool watches of the year, but still sharp enough to wear with a suit.

Grand Seiko SBGX343
Image: seiyajapan.com

Grand Seiko SBGX343 price and availability: 

The Grand Seiko SBGX343 is 407,000 yen (tax included), and is currently available. For more details, visit Grand Seiko here.