INTRODUCING: Bulgari slithers into 2021 with a trio of Serpenti Spiga watches
Zach BlassMore often then not, when we take a deep dive into a watch release, we explore creations billed for men. The idea of gendered watches is becoming more and more contested and, quite frankly, when it comes to spending your hard-earned money you should be able to wear whatever you want. The Bulgari Serpenti, however, is completely designed with a lady’s wrist in mind – although gentlemen feel free to explore if you think you have the fashion chops to pull it off. As the Roman Jeweller of Time, Bulgari has the ability to create watches that showcase how the externals of a watch can be just as complex as its internals. As a brand they experiment with distinct design formats and gem-setting that can only stem from their in-house expertise and know-how. This fusion of top-notch artisanal skillsets has resulted in the latest trio of updates to the Serpenti Spiga line of watches that were originally introduced in 2014.
The Serpenti Spiga watch, as its name implies, takes the shape of a serpent or snake. It’s coiled design conforms to the wrist, like a snake trapping its prey – the difference here being you get to decide how tight. The watch takes its form through multiple labour-intensive stages of assembly, ironically here the easiest component to manufacture and assemble is the quartz movement. But all of what we have come to love about highly decorated movements applies to the case construction of the Serpenti Spiga watch. The internal metal base is hand-bent and coiled around a tool. Once it has taken the desired form by the artisan, they then work to assemble the modular components that form the outer aesthetic.
These modular components are industrially produced in series, but are entirely finished and assembled by hand. The gold links are not soldered, but rather interlock seamlessly with each link connected by hand – ranging from 40 to 70 depending on the number and length of the coils. Connecting the links in this matter is why the watch is able to be flexible, as a solid rigid cuff would not fit so well nor be so comfortable.
Bulgari Serpenti Spiga 103250
The Bulgari Serpenti Spiga 103250 has a 35mm 18kt rose-gold case, with a bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and a rose-gold crown set with a single cabochon-cut rubellite. The dial is a nice white mother-of-pearl that has a neat texture and colour. The single-row (40 links) 18kt rose-gold bracelet is partially set with diamonds for a total of 281 brilliant-cut diamonds. Inside of the watch is a Bulgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement.
Bulgari Serpenti Spiga 103252
The Bulgari Serpenti Spiga 103252 shares similar elements with the 103250 with a few differences. It shares the same 35mm 18kt rose-gold case, bezel set with brilliant-cut diamonds, and rose-gold crown set with a single cabochon-cut rubellite. But the dial of the 103252 is a lacquered black colour and the bracelet here is a two-row (70 links) 18kt rose-gold bracelet partially set with diamonds for a total of 281 brilliant-cut diamonds. Like the previous model, the Bulgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement powers the watch.
Bulgari Serpenti Spiga High-Jewellery 103251
Of the trio, the Bulgari Serpenti Spiga High-Jewellery 103251 is the only reference in white gold. As the only watch covered completely in diamonds, it is also the only one of the trio billed as a “high jewellery” watch. The 18kt white gold case is also 35mm in diameter with a bezel set with 205 brilliant-cut diamonds {2.99 cts). The 18kt white-gold crown is set with a single cabochon-cut blue sapphire, exchanging the a pop of red for a pop of blue. The dial is decorated with 257 snow pavé-set diamonds (0,72 ct), and the hands and markers are blued to match the blue sapphire set within the crown. The two-row 18kt white-gold bracelet (70 links) is set with 425 brilliant-cut diamonds (17.04 cts). Inside the 103251 is also powered by a Bulgari-personalised high-precision quartz movement.
Bulgari Serpenti Spiga 2021 Collection pricing and availability:
