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IN-DEPTH: The CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 further refines the collection and distinguishes the brand IN-DEPTH: The CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 further refines the collection and distinguishes the brand

IN-DEPTH: The CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 further refines the collection and distinguishes the brand

Fergus Nash

Aside from their ANOMALY range of watches, CODE41 truely are an anomaly in the watchmaking world among established brands and microbrands alike. Plenty of companies arrive onto the scene with promises of making a difference, whether that be through revolutionary designs or environmental considerations, but CODE41 always delivers on all aspects. The CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 represents an important step in the lineage of the range, with each of the three iterations before this helping narrow down the identity which fans really want.

The first iteration of the CODE41 ANOMALY-01 aimed to deliver a high-tech luxury watch at an attainable price point, with a semi-skeletonised dial that bared the beating heart of the Miyota 82S7 within. The ANOMALY-02 brought the watch over into a more sophisticated zone, with a guilloché dial that hid the ETA movement and lowered the cost, while still pushing the boundaries of established design. Next came the ANOMALY EVOLUTION, which combined the aesthetic differences of the first two models into one next-generation watch that displayed decoration and complexity across distinct sections of the dial. The ANOMALY-T4 isn’t just another developmental step for the range, but a revolution that breaks even further away from traditional watchmaking while harnessing what people love most about the ANOMALY.

The dial

Some skeletonised dials are there to purely and simply show off the movement, removing all but the bare structural minimum needed to read the time. CODE41 endeavour to break down the barriers between the dial and the movement, with each shape looking like it could easily be a working component of the watch, if not some other kind of intricate clockwork machine. Of all the ANOMALY watches, the ANOMALY-T4 feels most like the watch has found a final form, with confident shapes within the skeleton unlike anything else in CODE41’s catalogue. The X-shaped beams around the central ring provide a great lateral symmetry, and the minimum requirements for reading the time are met with the hour markers and minute tracks, although that isn’t the priority with this watch.

With an emphasis on fan collaboration, the colour choices for the CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 was crowdsourced from an online poll. 12 options were put forward, and from there the variants were chosen from the highest voted. The most popular with 1,381 votes is quite a refreshing combination, with a desaturated blue dial that borders on teal and bright apple-green paint on the numerals and hand tips. Next up with 1,232 votes is the baseline choice, with a black background and bare silvery metal on the skeleton structure to emphasise its industrial approach. Third with 1,218 votes is a smokeshow in grey, with a darkened case to match the anthracite dial that screams high-tech. 1,202 votes went in favour of a much more daring flavour, with a black dial inside a DLC-coated black case that makes the bright orange skeleton burst off your wrist. With a matching orange strap, this version is unabashedly sporty. The final reference which garnered 1,117 votes is a much stealthier offering, with a murdered-out black-on-black colour scheme penetrated by electric blue printing on the minute markers and hand tips.

The case

CODE41’s case architecture is quite a well solidified style now, having stuck to the same general idea of a high-tech cushion interpretation since the brand’s inception. The cushion case is generally regarded as a 1970s look, but honing in the sides and extruding the lugs from the corners of the case itself gives the whole watch a much sharper, modern look, In combination with the skeletonised dial, the case holds a definite sci-fi sway as the watch almost looks like it could transform into some other gadget while you’re wearing it.

The predecessor to the CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 was available in two sizes to cater for a wider audience, with a 38mm version retaining its bold wrist presence in a unisex size and a much more dominant 41.5mm diameter, with both only around 11mm thick. This latest version lands on the latter 41.5mm diameter as the sole option, and keeps its relatively svelte 11.2mm thickness. It would be easy to make a watch like this upwards of 43mm even, so the restraint shown in the sizing helps the watch stay comfortable, while the design of the watch itself is more than enough to appear large and spottable from a distance. These cases are also environmentally conscious, being made from 100% recycled steel collected exclusively from Swiss medical and watchmaking industries.

The weight of the watch is also of note, being surprisingly light for a sporty design in stainless steel. On a leather strap, the weight is quoted as 111 grams, giving it enough of a luxurious heft without feeling like a burden on the wrist. If you’re inclined to change the strap over, the 100m water resistance rating also ensures that the watch is swimmable.

The movement

As with the previous generation, CODE41 have opted to use the elaborated grade of the Sellita SW200-1 S, keeping this exotic watch relatively affordable to both purchase and maintain without sacrificing reliable performance. The movement looks great through both the sapphire display caseback, or even just peering past the skeletonised dial. Adjusted in three positions, the SW200-1 used by CODE41 is accurate within +/-7 seconds per day, coming awfully close to COSC precision without the costly process of chronometer certification. The beat rate is a Swiss standard 28,800 vibrations per hour with a 38 hour power reserve.

The CODE41 ANOMALY T4 pricing and availability:

The CODE41 ANOMALY-T4 is now available for preorders from their site here, and the prices begin at $1,373 USD / 1,398 CHF. There will be two batches of 600 watches produced, with the first scheduled for March/April 2023 and the second for April/May 2023.

Case Material Recycled stainless steel
Case Dimensions 41.5mm x 11.2mm
Water-Resistance 100m
Dial Skeletonised
Straps Steel bracelet / rubber strap
Movement Sellita SW200-1 S
Power Reserve 38 hours
Complications Hours, minutes, seconds
Price $1,373 USD / 1,398 CHF