IN-DEPTH: The 42mm Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve (PAM01537), the little Panerai that could …
Yannick ChanStory in a second: All the complications you could possibly want in a Panerai, in a small(er) package.
There’s something about Panerai that I’ve always found fascinating. I don’t know if it’s because of the instantly recognisable shape of the case, the origins of the brand as a supplier of wrist-worn diving instruments to the Italian Navy, or simply the fact that they have got a certain presence on the wrist. Whatever it is, I’ve always wanted to get one, but it took a little while for me to find the right one. Other than the fact that they represent a fairly sizeable investment, I was concerned that the typical 44mm or 47mm models would look too bulky on my wrist. This all changed recently, when I got my hands on the *takes a deep breath* Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio 42mm, better known as the PAM01537.
The dial
The dial itself is black, with a beautiful “Clous de Paris”, or Paris hobnail textured pattern, which, rather romantically, takes inspiration from the streets of Paris. The luminous Arabic numerals and hour markers are in the classic Panerai style, easily legible in any environment. The watch has two main complications: a GMT hand and a three-day power reserve indicator at 5 o’clock. It also has a seconds sub-dial with a blue seconds hand, which gives the watch a nice splash of colour. A date aperture at 3 o’clock completes the picture. Overall, I think the dial is very well-balanced and carries a healthy dose of that distinctive Panerai DNA.
The case
It wasn’t always the case (pun intended), but these days, as far as distinctive features go, nothing says Panerai like the classic oversized crown guard with the inscriptions “REG.” and “T.M.”. Designed in the 1950s style, and, for any curious metallurgists reading this, the watch is made with AISI 316L 1.4435 stainless steel, chosen by Panerai for its corrosion resistance and hypoallergenic properties. For me, I just love the machining, the angles, and the quality of the mirror finish.
The movement
The watch is powered by Panerai’s in-house P.9012 calibre. With 31 jewels and 231 components, the PAM01537’s beating heart can be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback. This movement is an evolution of the P.9002 calibre, and is nearly 2mm thinner than its older counterpart. The P.9012 retains a seconds reset device, which automatically resets the seconds hand to the 12 o’clock position when the crown is pulled, and the hand stays hacked until the crown is pushed back into place, a handy detail that allows for accurate time-setting. Being a GMT model, the watch features a jumping hour hand, which can also be used as a quick way of setting the date.
The strap
The watch comes with a brown ‘Assolutamente’ calfskin leather strap with contrast stitching, and it is secured by a prominent stainless steel ardillon buckle. The strap is about as comfortable on the wrist as any leather strap I’ve ever worn and has a textured feel reminiscent of suede. The calfskin leather ages with wear and, over time, will develop a weathered look which highly complements the Panerai. For a more playful look, Panerai also offers a blue crocodile skin strap that perfectly matches the colour of the seconds hand.
On the wrist
Thanks to the prominent crown guard, relatively thick case and the long lugs, the watch wears big for a 42mm watch. However, at this size, it still fits perfectly under the cuff of a shirt and can be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. You will feel as perfectly at home wearing this watch during a high-stakes boardroom negotiation, as you will ripping through the streets of Maranello in a 1958 Ferrari Testarossa (or so, I can only imagine).
The verdict
This is a watch that you can wear every day of the week, whether you’re at home or on the road, and it never ceases to feel special. The real winner for me is the size, and how much functionality Panerai has been able to pack into this 42mm watch. The PAM01537 ticks all the boxes and was, for me, the perfect portal into the world of Panerai.
Talking point
Ever thought you couldn’t pull off a Panerai? Here, try this one on!
Who’s it for?
With the GMT functionality, the PAM01537 is perfect for those who do a fair bit of travel, but only want to take the one watch.
What would we change?
As much as I love the hobnail dial, part of me really wishes the watch came with a sandwich dial …
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio 42mm (PAM01537) Australian pricing
Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT Power Reserve Automatic Acciaio 42mm, $12,200