The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph worships quartz with staggering value for money
Buffy Acacia
It may be about 50 years late, but it seems like hardcore watch enthusiasts are finally coming around to accepting quartz on a similar footing to mechanical watchmaking. There will always be purists on either side, but quartz is definitely less of a dirty word now than just a few years ago. One wonderful example of a more affordable company unashamedly championing quartz movements is the Australian microbrand Hz Watches, whose very name honours the semi-controversial ticking of a quartz movement. Now in its second year of business, Hz has unveiled its second limited edition run of quartz-powered watches, and the HZ.02 Chronograph delivers on all possible aspects of value.
The case
Typically speaking, chronographs are chunky things with larger-than-life personalities and dimensions to go along with them. That stereotype was often necessitated by the complexity of a mechanical chronograph movement, but there’s no need for that here. A 37mm diameter allows those with smaller wrists to enjoy a chronograph without any stylistic sacrifices, following sizing that would be comfortable for any watch. The lug-to-lug length is just 43mm, and the total thickness including the box sapphire crystal is 12.5mm. The water resistance of 100 metres is also appreciated, ensuring the watch is swimmable. You may not realise from the sheen of the metal’s alternating brushed and polished finishes, but the case is made of grade 5 titanium that’s harder than steel at a fraction of the weight. There’s a lot to love about the design of the HZ.02, from the case’s curvature which conforms to a wrist shape, to the sculpted nature of those lugs that seem to take on some of that 1960s lyre lug personality.
However, my favourite feature is the use of a sapphire display caseback to show off the meca-quartz movement. Most quartz movements behind exhibition casebacks are pieces of high-end luxury, so it’s refreshing to see the same respect applied to something that’s truly affordable and humble, while still looking cool. Thankfully, it’s also clear that while affordability was a priority for the HZ.02, no corners have been cut during production. That’s evidenced by the use of sapphire crystals with multiple layers of anti-reflective coatings, as well as ceramic bezel inserts that offer smooth colour and great scratch resistance. A unidirectional 12-hour bezel has been used in place of a tachymeter because it can be used to track a second time zone – and frankly, very few people ever need a tachymeter.
The dial
A great dial is all about balance, and that’s something that many chronographs lack. Knowing when enough detail is enough can be tough, but the HZ.02 is particularly pared back. After all, when was the last time you saw a chronograph without a tachymeter? Ignoring all unnecessary elements allows for a much cleaner look that lets the design itself shine through. The element that catches the eye most has to be the diamond embossing of the dial’s background, which is subtle enough to add texture without distraction. It also helps the contrasting subdials to pop and lets the dial breathe, which is a rare thing for a 37mm watch.
Maybe it’s the applied circular Hz logo combined with the minimalistic yet textured dial, but I also get a strong sense that the HZ.02’s dial echoes the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronograph. It’s nowhere near close enough to be considered a homage and it definitely has its own personality, but it shares that same elegant sensibility of a sports watch heightened to dressy status. There are five colours to choose from, including panda and reverse panda configurations in black and blue, plus one in olive green. All models use off-white Super-LumiNova that glows green after dark.
The movement
The Seiko VK63 mechaquartz movement has started receiving quite a lot of criticism in the last year or so, specifically to do with its 24-hour subdial at 3 o’clock which many watch enthusiasts believe is redundant. I do agree that it’s not a very useful complication and that an hours counter would be much more applicable, but it does seem a bit unfair to consider that detail a dealbreaker in terms of purchasing a watch. As far as quartz chronographs go, the appeal of a smooth-sweeping seconds hand more than makes up for the 24-hour subdial, and that’s the main highlight of the VK63. There aren’t many choices out there for affordable chronograph movements, especially when the 1Hz tick of a quartz movement is generally so disliked among enthusiasts. Whether or not it’s a dealbreaker for you, I’m sure there will be plenty of people out there who will love its performance.
The bracelet
Beads of rice bracelets are a beautiful choice for sports watches that can blend into formal settings, and that’s exactly the energy of the HZ.02. This particular example is actually a mix of titanium and stainless steel components, aiming for a blend of weight reduction and durability. The clasp itself is milled stainless steel and quite interesting, with on-the-fly adjustment as well as traditional micro-adjustment holes. The end links use regular spring bars, but they’re easy to remove thanks to the drilled lugs. The lug width is 20mm, allowing for a practically infinite range of strap experimentation.
Not only is Hz’s celebration of quartz movements so refreshing, but the design of the HZ.02 Chronograph is also a breath of fresh air. Doing away with the tachymeter may be controversial, but I think the dial and bezel are vastly improved because of it. The 12-hour bezel insert adds a level of real-world functionality that’s missing from many chronographs, and the HZ.02 as a whole offers a level of sophistication that’s very rarely seen in affordable chronos. Considering the use of materials like titanium and ceramic, the quality of the manufacturing, and the US$249 pre-order price tag, it’s definitely a bargain for the right enthusiast.
Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph price and availability
The Hz Watches HZ.02 Chronograph pre-order window opens on November 30th, 2024 at 9:00 AM AEDT, with deliveries expected from late February 2025. Each colour variant is limited to 300 pieces, individually numbered on the caseback. Price: US$249 (pre-order price, US$319 RRP)
| Brand | Hz Watches |
| Model | HZ.02 Chronograph |
| Case Dimensions | 37mm (D) x 12.5mm (H) x 43mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Black/blue panda, reverse panda, green reverse panda |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | Titanium and steel bracelet with on-the-fly adjustment |
| Movement | Seiko VK63, mechaquartz |
| Battery Life | ~3 years |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, 24-hour indicator |
| Availability | Available for pre-order from November 30th 2024, delivery expected in late February 2025 |
| Price | US$249 (pre-order price) US$319 (RRP) |
Made in partnership with Hz Watches. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.