The Hublot Big Bang takes a bow with the 20th Anniversary editions
Buffy AcaciaFew watches have defined brands like the Big Bang defines Hublot. It arrived with an explosiveness deserving of its name back in 2005, reinvigorating the Hublot brand which had merely plodded along for a quarter century. Now, to celebrate both the origins and current state of the Hublot Big Bang collection, five limited editions have been released in a variety of case materials, with a lot more as part of Hublot’s Watches and Wonders 2025. It’s the Art of Fusion at its best, and the best of both worlds.
The case
When the first Big Bang was unveiled under the fresh leadership of Jean-Claude Biver, it was a reimagining of the original Hublot from 1980 with extra everything. The same basic shapes and the classic porthole bezel were present, but its construction and its attitude were completely overhauled. These limited editions have a brand new case, which is a stylistic blend of the 2005 Big Bang and the current Big Bang Unico. The “pinched” lugs and the knurled edge of the bezel are taken from the old design, while the general blockiness gives it the industrial feel of the newer models. The 43mm diameter is also new, emphasising the Big Bang’s more is more take on watchmaking, while the 13.2mm thickness is pretty wearable when what we’re looking at is put in context. They’re also 100-metre water resistant should you wish to wear them swimming.
For five limited editions, we’re treated to five different case materials. First up is the Titanium Ceramic model with a lightweight titanium case and a black ceramic bezel, hitting a great middle zone of comfort and durability, limited to 500 pieces. Similarly limited is the All Black, crafted entirely from black ceramic in a murdered-out, gothic frenzy. More exclusive at 250 pieces is Hublot’s 18k King Gold, containing high amounts of platinum in its alloy for greater resistance to tarnishing and better overall stability. Then, limited to 100 pieces, we have a red ceramic version that certainly makes an impact. Finally, there’s Hublot’s Magic Gold limited to 100 pieces, combining 18k gold and boron carbide ceramic for an entirely scratch-proof alloy.
The dial
The debut Big Bang didn’t actually have a carbon fibre dial, and so neither does this one. Instead, it’s a stamped pattern that simply mimics the weave of carbon fibre. It is technically a cheaper option, but it’s also kind of endearing. Instead of the triple-register chronograph of the original however, the dial takes after the Big Bang Unico flyback chronograph models with only a 60-minute counter and a running seconds subdial. The Unico movement only came along after the Big Bang had already been released in 2010, but as an in-house calibre, it’s much more representative of where Hublot is today.
Another hallmark of the Big Bang style is its alternating Arabic and baton hour markers, with the Unico model specifically using a stencil cut-out style for its Arabics. That gives it a more militaristic look, and it also makes the colours pop more when something contrasting is used, such as red or gold on some of these limited editions. A date window is tucked away at 4:30, which is a pet peeve for some, but it’s worth retaining the extra bit of functionality. There’s also the Hublot “H” counterbalance on the seconds hand, and red is generally used as an accent colour across all of the new references.
The movement
As discussed, the Unico flyback chronograph was Hublot’s first in-house effort, and its main claims to fame were a 72-hour power reserve along with a modular escapement that could adapt to almost any complication. The current calibre HUB1280 (Unico 2, released in 2018) has found its way into countless Hublot calibres, and it’s been designed specifically to be enjoyed with skeletonisation. That isn’t the case on these watches, so the double horizontal clutch isn’t visible. But from the sapphire display caseback, you can still see the skeletonised winding rotor as well as that balance wheel. The main improvement from the Unico 1 to the Unico 2 was its slimmer and smaller size, allowing for it to be used in watches less than 45mm in diameter.
The strap
All of the new Big Bang 20th Anniversary Editions use black rubber straps for the most comfort and versatility possible, with the exception of the red ceramic model which has a colour-matched strap. The carbon grid design of the dial is echoed in a diamond-cut texture running down the centre of the strap, and it also has contrasting black edges on the red reference. Should you wish to experiment with straps, the watch is equipped with Hublot’s One Click strap exchange system, and I’m sure that other combinations will be possible.
The verdict
Considering that you can already buy several variations of the 2005 archetype in the Big Bang Original catalogue, it’s refreshing to see Hublot approach this anniversary with something other than a pure reissue. Its adherence to the Art of Fusion means that the case materials are genuinely interesting, and sets these limited editions apart from other Hublots, and indeed other watches of any kind.
Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Editions price and availability
The Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Editions are limited to 500 pieces in titanium and black ceramic, 250 pieces in King Gold, and 100 pieces in Magic Gold or red ceramic. Price: US$20,800 (titanium), US$25,200 (black ceramic), US$31,800 (red ceramic), US$38,400 (King Gold), US$40,500 (Magic Gold)
| Brand | Hublot |
| Model | Big Bang 20th Anniversary Edition |
| Reference | 431.NM.1337.RX (Titanium Ceramic) 431.OM.1338.RX (King Gold) 431.CF.1313.RX (Red Ceramic) 431.CI.1340.RX (All Black) 431.MX.1330.RX (Magic Gold) |
| Case Dimensions | 43mm (D) |
| Case material | Titanium with black ceramic bezel 18k King Gold Red ceramic Black ceramic 18k Magic Gold |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Stamped carbon effect |
| Bracelet and strap | Integrated rubber strap with Hublot One Click system |
| Movement | HUB1280, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | 500 pieces in titanium and black ceramic 250 pieces in King Gold 100 pieces in Magic Gold or red ceramic |
| Price | US$20,800 (titanium) US$25,200 (black ceramic) US$31,800 (red ceramic) US$38,400 (King Gold) US$40,500 (Magic Gold) |