The HTD Hesagraph MkII Variante B is a classic (and attainable) mechanical chronograph
Time+TideLooking at the history of horology in the past 100 years, there are three genres of watches we most often read about: field watches, dive watches, and chronographs. The latter is what interests us today as it rarely is the type of watch micro and independent brands release – or more specifically, mechanical chronographs, as there are plenty of quartz and mechaquartz options available on the market today. This might be due to the cost of utilising mechanical chronograph movements and the complexity of servicing them. But watch enthusiasts have been asking for such timekeeping devices, which only high-end Swiss and Japanese brands typically offer at a more affordable price, and more and more indies are answering the call. The latest brand to do so is Italy’s HTD, with the Hesagraph MkII.
The case
The first thing to note with this model is its overall compact form factor. It’s surprisingly good for a mechanical chrono, which notoriously tend towards the thicker side. Made of 316L stainless steel, the case of the HTD Hesagraph MkII strikes a good balance between being well-proportioned (read: comfortable) and looking distinct (it is fully polished) without overdoing it. With dimensions of 39mm in diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 12.4mm tall, the Hesagraph does indeed wear well, as pictured here on a 6.25-inch wrist. Its profile is more straight than curved, given that the lugs only shyly turn down toward the wrist and that they are wide and long with an inner and narrow chamfer. But this isn’t a problem for me, and it won’t be one for you if your wrists are of the same diameter as mine or larger.
Another thing to note, and one which is perhaps contradictory to the previous paragraph, is the noticeable wrist presence the HTD commands due in part to its intended purpose – the three sub-registers call for our attention – and the particular shape of the case. Besides the lugs, the Hesagraph MkII has a masculine appearance with a bezel that looks wide in relation to the dial. This is due to its mountain-peak shape where the inner portion of it slopes down at a gentle angle towards the crystal while the outer section angles down more sharply towards the mid-case. And with both sides of the bezel being fully polished, it is hard to miss it as it reflects light at all angles. It should be noted that the polishing work here is quite impressive, as it is consistent and comes with a pronounced mirror-like appearance.
The dial
The best way to describe the dial of the HTD Hesagraph MkII, especially this “Variante B” model, is simply classic. We find a classic tri-compax layout with a running seconds sub-register at 9 o’clock, a 30-minute totalizer at 3, and a 12-hour totalizer at 6. The latter sub-registers pop for having white backgrounds, which contrast intensely with the black (and almost brown at times) dial. Each sub-register is designed with a function-first approach to be highly legible even at normal watch-reading distance. For example, the hours on the 12-hour totalizer are indicated by hashes and the 12, 3, 6, and 9 are highlighted with Arabic numerals, whilst the half hours are indicated with dots. A similar design language is used on the running seconds sub-register where the 5-second increments are indicated with hashes and punctuated with dots.
The latter design elements of the Hesagraph MkII look quite sporty and are reminiscent of 1970s/1980s-era Rolex Daytonas and Omega Speedmasters. But another contradiction comes when looking at the rest of the dial, which looks much more elegant and “everyday” than the sub-registers. The hour markers are fully polished and applied, doubled at the twelve, and the pencil-style hour and minute hands are also fully polished.
Minimal branding above the pinion complements the tool-y aspect of the Hesagraph MkII, as does the fully graduated minute track, which disappears at some angles on account of the distortions created by the curved, top-hat sapphire crystal. But combining the fully polished case with the numerous polished accents on the dial – all six hands and the hour markers – the Hesagraph also comes with a certain elegant Italian allure. Note there is a second colourway of this watch called the Cannoli, which has a bicompax layout and a cream dial, but otherwise boasts the same specs and price.
The bracelet
Perhaps unsurprisingly, the HTD Hesagraph MkII is shipped on a three-link stainless steel bracelet complete with screwed links and a small double-pusher deployant clasp. However, something that is an unexpected surprise is that the clasp has four old-fashioned micro-adjustment points and no quick-release spring bars. (The lugs are not drilled.) The advantage of an old-school clasp like this one is that it is thin and narrow, and therefore comfortable to wear.
The movement
Inside this HTD we find a hand-wound Swiss-made Sellita SW510M which ticks at 28,800 BPH (4Hz) and has 56 hours of power reserve. It is a fully-fledged mechanical chronograph movement that is highly versatile and functional. The fact that it is a manual-winding calibre also partially explains the relative thinness (12.4mm) of this model.
HTD Hesagraph MkII Variante B pricing and availability
The HTD Hesagraph MkII collection is available now for immediate purchase and shipping via the brand’s website. Price: €1,549
| Brand | HTD |
| Model | Hesagraph MkII |
| Colourway | Variante B (as tested) |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 12.4mm (T) x 48mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 316L stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Tobacco black “reverse panda” |
| Bracelet | Three-link stainless steel bracelet, deployant clasp |
| Movement | Sellita SW510M, manual-winding |
| Power Reserve | 56 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, running seconds, chronograph |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | €1,549 |
Made in partnership with HTD. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.