Why I bought the Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 ChronographZach Blass
Editor’s note: Occasionally, we’ll throw to members of the team to explain themselves when it comes to their endless watch purchases. And on that note, if you wish to work in this team, you must be endlessly purchasing watches of some kind or another. Zach mentioned a couple of weeks ago that he was one of the fortunate buyers of the handsome bronze Hanhart that’s been dominating feeds lately. Also note that stories like these require the writer to take their own pics. The whole angle is subjective and firsthand. So, over to you Zach … Why? How? All of that.
In a very luxury-driven industry, it can be hard at times to find rare watches that are more affordable. Revolution magazine, in collaboration with Hanhart, have proven that a killer watch can be offered at a killer value with the new Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph. The story goes that The Rake x Revolution founder Wei Koh met Hanhart’s co-managing director Felix Wallner at the 2017 Basel Fair, and mentioned he would love to have “Steve McQueen’s other watch”. While Felix Wallner noted that he had gotten this request hundreds of times, it took Wei’s nudge to get the project started. As a result I now have my first bronze watch – and boy do I have a lot to say about it!
Once I put it on the wrist, I felt …
Relieved. With my smaller six-and-some-change inch wrist, I was concerned a 42mm watch would not suit my wrist. Two things (besides the fact I thought the watch was cool) led me to believe it was possible for it to fit well. First, the fact the lug to lug is under 50mm. Second, that the bund strap would prevent the watch from looking like it flared off my wrist with the black bund as its conforming background.
My assumptions and hopes were fortunately correct: the watch manages to flatter my smaller wrist well. The bund situates the watch perfectly around my wrist, making my wrist look a tad bigger and the watch a tad smaller – a harmonious middle ground for my wrist. The strap is super supple and comfortable and does not wear hot on the wrist. As a whole, it has a nice heft to it in feel, and after punching two extra holes carefully into the strap, it fit perfectly on my wrist.
The Bronze really looks like rose gold, and a few of my friends both in and outside of #watchfam have actually made the mistake of thinking that is the case (pun intended). The brushed and polished surface combinations are very well done and the tapered high polish on the top of the lugs is definitely in line with vintage aesthetics. While the bund pad can be removed, I would be hard-pressed to wear it on another configuration. It really ties the look together and drives home the McQueen & Motorcycle feeling on the wrist.
What stood out to me …
The level of finishing and build for a watch under $2000 USD. I cannot stress enough how rich the satin grain texture is and how well executed the tapered high polish surfaces are on the lugs. The polish perfectly extends from the outer bezel into the top facet of the lugs. The bi-directional bezel is super smooth in tactile experience, but also manages to remain in place. I have yet to see it move out of line with the 12 numeral – unless I choose to do so. As someone with German heritage, I take a lot of pride in anything made in Germany when it comes to watches – and have yet to be let down with their renowned attention to detail and fabrication.
When you get in closer to the dial, hands and registers they are very crisp and clean. In fact, the minutes and central chronograph seconds hands are carefully bent down to point towards the outer track of hash markings. A very nice detail that some brands leave behind in the name of quick and mass production. The registers have a nice step to them, with a circular radial grain masterfully executed within. The white hands across the dial look almost porcelain like, with no chips or blemishes to the coatings. The “Old Radium” Super-LumiNova is tasteful “fauxtina” that provides vintage cues without overdoing it. A great balance of modern and vintage.
I’d wear this with …
I would wear this with any outfit that involves pants – whether formal or smart casual attire. While the case is 100 metres water resistant, it’s unlikely I would swim with the watch – but it’s nice to know it can get wet if need be. While it could be paired with a variety of wardrobes, I see it as a watch that rests in front of a chunky sweater or plays peekaboo under a shirt or jacket sleeve. While I did not opt to bundle the watch with a Belstaff motorcycle jacket, I will certainly pair it with the leather jacket I currently own. To be fair, the Belstaff and Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition combo is hard to beat. Considering you can save $190 USD on the jacket in the process, it is very worthy of consideration and a quick way to have the perfect outfit to match the timepiece.
If I could change anything …
The only thing I could in theory critique here is the Sellita SW 510 manual movement – but if I did, it would be unfair for a couple of reasons. First, the Sellita movement keeps the watch on the thinner side, at 13mm, including it’s tall boxed sapphire crystal (supposedly a little over 11mm excluding the crystal). This is very important to maintain the vintage proportions of the 417 watch, as well as keep the thickness down, considering it sits on a (slightly) height-adding bund strap. Second, while not a column wheel all-star like the caliber 321, it is a super reliable movement and performs well (within +0-8 seconds a day at my estimate) while keeping costs down for the offering. Swap in a different movement, and who knows what the price would have been.
One week on …
With weather now cooling down as Fall approaches here in the USA, I can foresee this getting plenty of wrist time. When I wore it on a trip last week (while utilising proper COVID-19 safety measures) to the Metropolitan Museum of Art I managed to get a few compliments from other curious patrons and staff – at a distance no less! The bund look can be quite polarising within the community, but in the eyes of the masses it’s a guaranteed eye-catcher. Nowadays, it is a different and less common look that stands out from the herd. Plus, with the power of Steve McQueen vibes it is just straight-up cool looking. There is a reason this watch was a part of the legendary actor’s rotation of wristwear.
Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph pricing and availability:
The Hanhart x The Rake & Revolution Limited Edition Bronze 417 Chronograph is a limited edition of 150 pieces, and priced at $1900 USD (or $2300 if you opt for the Belstaff Jacket and watch bundle)
For the full backstory on the collaboration, you can check out Wei’s introduction to the watch here.
To purchase, click here to head to the Revolution Shop page.