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HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch

HANDS-ON: The TAG Heuer Solargraph may just be the perfect luxury adventure watch

Zach Blass

While some are finally shaking the sentiment off, it is no secret that watch snobs love to dismiss and knock quartz watches. And, I get it. The quartz crisis nearly rendered the mechanical timepieces we all love extinct. So it is easy to understand why horology lovers are so protective of mechanical watchmaking. That being said, there is always a best tool for every job and if there is any luxury timepiece truly fit for everyday wear and adventure it is the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph – which for those who do not already know is an Aquaracer that features a solar-powered movement.

 

 

This 2023 LVMH Watch Week novelty is the sequel to the highly sought-after model that debuted at the last Watches & Wonders. With only 1,000 of these initial steel and carbon DLC models made in 2022, many were left waiting for production to ramp up. Fortunately, not only will there be more of the first Solargraph available for purchase, but we also now have a second model in full sandblasted titanium on a case-matching bracelet rather than a rubber strap.

The case

Based on my experience with my Zenith Night Surfer Time+Tide Edition, blasted titanium is the perfect material choice for a daily wearer as it wears its scratches far better than the typical mixed satin/polishes we usually see. In hand, the 40mm watch, 11.5mm thick and 47mm across the wrist, is astoundingly light.

Normally, luxury is associated with heft, but there is something to be said when a manufacture intends for a watch to be lightweight and truly succeeds in this mission. It does not make sense to have a paperweight on your wrist dragging you down during your adventures, so, while those not used to the feeling of titanium on their wrists may be initially baffled, trust me, the feather-like lightness on the wrist is a huge functional advantage. The Solargraph also has a 200 metre depth rating, secured by a screw-down crown, so it is more than up to the task of your adventures above and below water.

The dial

Framed by the uni-directional sand-blasted titanium timing bezel, and beneath a flat sapphire crystal, you have a sleek black sunray dial with horizontal striations running across its surface. The black sunray dial, in tandem with the sand-blasted titanium, is rather monochromatic. But the jolt of colour injected by the polar blue accents of the jumping seconds hand and squared hour indices creates a livening subtle flair to its aesthetic. It means business, but is ready for fun as well.

Unlike the previous steel and carbon DLC model, it is important to note that the luminous material is limited strictly to the dial – just the hours and minutes hands, as well as the applied hour indices. In this instance, the bezel has no luminous material injected into it, nor are any elements of the timing scale luminous. If we are being realistic though, 99% of us are not majorly concerned with using the timing bezel – at least not at dark depths in the ocean.

The bracelet

The bracelet is made of the same grade 2 titanium as the case with the same sand-blasted finish. It ever so slightly tapers down from its initial 21mm lug width as you reach its twin-triggered folding clasp, which notably has a comfort link adjustment system that allows you to add 7mm in length on the fly. Thanks to its lightweight titanium, you barely notice it comfortably wrapping around your wrist. While it is super light, like the case it is highly robust – a win-win for adventurers looking for something that will hold up under stress while also offering an aesthetic for casual outings as well.

The movement

Returning briefly to the dial, the striations across it are not merely for aesthetic purposes – although they do look nice and create a boating feel whether intentional or not. These tinted transparent slits actually allow sun and artificial light to charge the solar movement within the watch. Dubbed the calibre TH50-00, this movement designed in partnership with La Joux-Perret has no need for a battery change every few years. To power the watch for a full day only requires a mere two minutes of exposure to light, and after less than 20 hours the battery will find itself fully charged with a power reserve of up to six months. Pull the crown out, the watch will even enter a power saving mode that will allow the watch to last three and a half years before it needs a charge. Honestly, I would just leave my watch by my window each evening so that when I wake up it already will have basked in enough light to keep it going. Should you somehow leave the watch in darkness long enough for the watch to stop ticking, it only takes 10 seconds under light to get it started again – then, simply go about your day, and the watch will continue to recharge itself over the course of wear.

The verdict

If you are an absolute quartz snob there is nothing anyone could say to persuade you this watch has a lot to offer. But for those willing to see reason, and are eager to own a watch with a luxurious build that has an industry-leading, hassle-free quality to its performance, I would definitely recommend the TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph for your consideration.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph pricing and availability:

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph is available for purchase now, and will begin shipping February 28 2023. Price: A$4,450, US$3,050, CHF 3,000

Brand Tag Heuer
Model Aquaracer Professional 200 Solargraph
Case Diameter 40mm (D) x 11.5mm (T) x 47mm (L2L)
Case Material Sand Blasted Grade 2 Titanium
Water Resistance 200m
Dial Black
Crystal(s) Sapphire crystal
Strap Sand Blasted Grade 2 Titanium
Lug Width 21mm
Movement TAG Heuer x La Joux-Perret TH50-00
Power Reserve Six months on full solar charge (up to 3.5 years in Power Save mode)
Functions Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Date
Availability Now
Price A$4,450
US$3,050
CHF 3,000