HANDS-ON: The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo brings a luxurious touch of hyper-masculinity to the wrist

Fergus Nash

Black and gold as a colour combination will never fail to melt hearts, serving to imbue any watch with a sense of deluxe class no matter how macho it may be. The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo may just be the perfect example of this, with all its tool-watch pedigree and masculine undertones, it just can’t help but bring flashiness to the table. It also proves that some watches don’t need any hype-fuelled back stories, collaborations or limited-edition easter-eggs. Some watches can just look fantastic.

The case

Of course, the lack of pretense for this watch doesn’t mean that Panerai’s marketing department won’t go to town on it. The case and bezel of the Panerai Submersible OroCarbo is made of a material they call Goldtech — a unique alloy of gold, copper, and platinum that grants the watch a gorgeous red hue without the risk of oxidisation or corrosion when exposed to sweat or seawater. This all sounds extraordinarily high-tech, but in fact all rose-gold alloys are made with a mixture of copper. That said, it’s difficult to blame Panerai for clinging to their military-grade diving roots, as the exaggerated nature of the watches themselves are what makes Panerai watches so unique and loved by many.

The Submersible case is a classic cushion style, with a set of thick squared-off lugs that let the watch sit with massive presence on the wrist. It’s 44mm in diameter and isn’t afraid to show every part of that, with the Panerai attitude usually aligning with bigger is better, although a 13.35mm thickness isn’t as chunky as you may have expected. The huge crown guard is definitely a large part of the watch’s character too, extending the amount of gold across your arm even further. The Goldtech bezel uses a carbon insert, completing the nomenclature of OroCarbo, which also helps the watch maintain an element of sportiness rather than swing wholly into dress-diver were it to be made of glossy ceramic.

The dial

Although the online renders show the dial of the Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo to have a brilliant sunburst finish, in reality it’s much more of a matte black. This definitely works in favour of the watch keeping it’s tool-focused roots, and ensures that the details of the dial can stand out on their own without distraction. The skeletonised hands are easily legible against the black, however precise legibility has never been the sole focus of this Panerai style given the lack of minute markers. The negative display date window is integrated quite seamlessly, working to balance the sub-seconds display at 9 o’clock. The luminous paint, which is actually two-toned for easily differentiating the hour and minute hands after dark, seems to have a very slight tinge of faux-patina ageing to it, as the printed white parts of the dial such as the Panerai logo, automatic text and markers on the subdial appear to be a bit brighter.

The movement

Although you’ll rarely see it through the black DLC-coated titanium caseback, the Panerai in-house P.900 calibre beats away as the heart of this watch. There isn’t too much to say about the P.900 that isn’t already known as it’s been used in so many different Panerai references, being a highly versatile movement. The 72-hour power reserve is its most impressive statistic, beating at the luxury standard of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The automatic winding and date display make it a great candidate for daily wear, even if the watch’s style isn’t what you would typically consider wearing to a board meeting.

The verdict

As far as Panerai watches go, the Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo is definitely among the flashiest. For $44,400AUD, this watch is undoubtedly a status symbol with undertones of adventure and ruggedness — a far cry from the flashy gold dress watches which collectors may typically prefer in this price range. You can pretty much guarantee that you’re not going to bump into anyone else with the same watch while wearing this, and although you will belong to the elite club of Panerai owners, your ownership experience will still be unique amongst them.

Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo pricing and availability

The Panerai Submersible Goldtech OroCarbo is currently available from Panerai stockists for $44,400AUD