VIDEO: The new precious and polished Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches in rose and yellow gold
Zach BlassThis year, the sandblasted rose gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo took its final curtain call within the collection, but at Geneva Watch Days in late August its successors arrived. Now we have two precious-metal options, with mixed brushed and polished finishing. The first is a standard-production, rose-gold model ref. 103637, and the second is a limited-edition, yellow-gold ref. 103717 that celebrates the 50th anniversary of the first Bulgari boutique in the USA with a run of 50 pieces. Let’s not stall, and jump right in.
These two precious-metal Bulgari Octo Finissimo watches come in at 40mm in diameter, and 6.4mm thick, but with that extra millimetre of thickness (when compared to the original form) you get 100 metres of screw-down crown secured water resistance. The octagonal form of the Octo Finissimo is just a baroque sculptural modern icon at this point, and here on both models we have beautifully executed mixed finishes throughout the case and the bracelet.
Both watches have been outfitted with a brown sunburst dial. Now brown is usually paired with rose gold, it is very common and creates what many collectors refer to as a “chocolate” aesthetic. Yellow gold and brown, on the other hand, is a bit of a twist. It might seem straightforward to do in execution, but it is far less commonly seen. As you would expect from an Octo Finissimo, the dials of 103637 and 103717 are very clean. There are no hashes for an outer minutes track. You simply have the razor-thin case and matching applied indices and numerals, as well as skeletonized or semi skeletonized hands. Asymmetrically placed at the 7 o’clock position, you once again have a small running seconds register as well.
Two characteristics I love about the Bulgari Octo Finissimo bracelet are the fact that the links are quite compact in length. So, even though there is no micro adjustment, you can really fine tune the size quite well on the wrist. The second characteristic is the fact that the clasp sinks into the bracelet, so there is no added thickness – something that is very important for a watch that is well known for its ultra-thinness.
Inside, beneath an exhibition caseback, you have the very thin in-house BVL138 caliber that is a mere 2.23mm thick – allowing the case to be so thin as it is. While it is a such a thin movement, it offers 60 hours of power reserve. And, as technical as the calibre is, with even at its size a full balance bridge, it is also quite handsomely finished. You have nicely striped and chamfered bridges, as well as a platinum micro rotor that, with its greater mass, allows the calibre to be more efficiently wound on the wrist.
Ultimately these are two precious-metal watches, so they are not going to be in everybody’s budget. Fortunately in this regard, you still have titanium, steel, and ceramic options to explore. But, if you have the financial means, both watches offer an opportunity to wear own something far less commonly seen in the wild. Quite frankly, I think anybody who purchases one of these two watches has a lot of foresight. As a modern icon, I can only imagine the respect these watches will still command decades from now.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo 103637 & 103717 pricing and availability:
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo rose-gold reference 103637 is not a limited addition, but the yellow gold reference 103717 is a limited edition of 50 pieces to celebrate the 50th anniversary of the first Bulgari boutique in the United States that is technically exclusive to the USA (but I suspect that if you go into your local Bulgari boutique outside of the region you might be able to snag one). Price: US$44,800 (103637), US$45,500 (103717)
| Brand | Bulgari |
| Model | Octo Finissimo Automatic |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm x 6.4mm x 46.5mm |
| Case Materials | Rose gold (103637), yellow gold (103717) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres (screw-down crown) |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and rear |
| Dials | Brown sunburst |
| Lug Width | 30mm |
| Straps | Bracelet with butterfly style clasp |
| Movement | BVL 138 |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Availability | Now, (103717 limited to 50 pcs.) |
| Price | US$44,800 (103637), $US45,500 (103717) |