HANDS-ON: The rose-gold Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT is sleek, sculptural and downright sexy
D.C. HannayWe all know the Bulgari Octo Finissimo series as some of the most in-demand timepieces on the market today. You’ll find them peeking out of the well-turned cuffs of A-listers the world over. They’re sleek, sculptural, and let’s face it, downright sexy, and this one’s no exception. This is the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in rose gold, and the combination of the sharply angled rose gold case with a deep brown sunray dial brings a real warmth to the sharp architectural aesthetic that is the Octo Finissimo’s calling card. Let’s get a closer look from all its many angles.
The case
First off, this reference, the 103468, represents another record for Bulgari. It’s the latest variant of the world’s slimmest automatic-winding watch that features both a chronograph and a GMT function, its case measuring a barely- there 8.75 millimetres thick. Pretty remarkable, but that’s what we’ve come to expect from the Octo Finissimo lineup: one broken world record after another. The satin-polished rose-gold case has a diameter of 43mm, with a lug-to-lug of 53.7mm, and a lug width of 21mm. The satin finishing tones down the inherent bling of the gold, and the radial brushing on the bezel is especially attractive. The Chrono GMT retains the bleeding-edge angles of its predecessors, with the pushers at 2, 4, and 9 well-integrated into those sharp lines. The sculpted and stepped overall look has been called “architectural” many times, and it reminds me of a top-down look at some futuristic Mayan pyramid, or perhaps some imposingly monolithic building from Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner. No matter how many times you look at it, it seems as if there’s always something new to see in that layered, eight-sided case. The crown features a tasteful black ceramic insert, and notably, it’s eight-sided, with ample grip provided by double rows of raised bars. The visible caseback is secured with four pentagonal-headed screws, and the watch is rated to a depth of 100 metres, should you find yourself falling overboard after too much Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame at that yacht party.
The dial
Let’s take a look at that gorgeous brown lacquered sunray dial: Although the watch is a chrono, the GMT time is actually shown in the subdial at 3 o’clock, with the 30-minute register and running seconds at 6 and 9, respectively. Everything on the well-balanced dial is rendered in rose gold, including the sculpted hands, markers, and applied luminous indices. Finishing is as you’d expect from Bulgari, fine and nearly flawless. Regarding function, the elongated chrono pushers are in their traditional place on the right side of the case, while the pusher at nine advances the GMT hand in one-hour increments. Everything works together rather seamlessly in this layout, and all the dial’s elements are easily read, with the gold popping nicely against that rich brown sunray finish.
The strap
Though the Octo Finissimo on a bracelet can be a bit of an in-your-face statement for some, this version comes on an upscale brown alligator strap that’s sensuous, supple, and oh-so-luxe. The proprietary attachment and 21mm lug width will limit your strap-swapping activities, but come on, why would you? The wearing experience is pure, unbridled decadence. The package is completed with a matching solid 18k rose gold ardillon (pin) buckle for a softer overall look than the metal bracelet we typically associate with the Octo Finissimo.
The movement
Now, we can’t talk about the Octo Finissimo without mentioning the movement, and the in-house BVL318 measures a frankly mind-blowing 3.3mm thick. Pretty remarkable, considering the automatic winding, as well as the chrono and GMT functionality. Bulgari is justifiably proud of their technological achievements, and if you’re a movement freak, this one’s got a lot going for it. One of the ways that Bulgari slimmed down the movement was by use of a platinum peripheral rotor, which helps keep a low profile while doing its watch-winding business. By design, the rotor also happens to afford a nice view of the rest of the movement. Performance-wise, the column wheel Calibre BVL318 has a rate of 28,800 vph, and a power reserve of 55 hours. And did I mention how gorgeous it is? Fortunately, you can see it yourself through the sapphire caseback, in all its 37-jewelled, Geneva-striped glory. And as easily as you can get lost in the details of the Octo Finissimo case, equally hypnotic are the subtleties of the movement’s aesthetic beauty.
The verdict
The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT in rose gold continues Bulgari’s streak of record-breaking models, but does so in a warmer, less edgy way. The rose gold, deep brown dial colour, and matching alligator strap puts a soft-focus filter on the entire frame, and renders the sometimes brutalist aesthetic of the Octo Finissimo into something far more approachable. It’s just another stunning example of Bulgari’s artistry, and a truly thoroughbred addition to the Octo Finissimo stable.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Rose Gold pricing and availability:
The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 103468 is available now for purchase. Price: A$53,600
| Brand | Bulgari |
| Model | Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT 103468 |
| Case Diameter | 43mm (D) x 8.75mm (T) x 53mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Rose Gold |
| Water Resistance | 100m |
| Dial | Brown lacquered sunray dial |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal and caseback |
| Strap | Brown alligator with 18k rose gold ardillon pin buckle |
| Movement | BVL318 Automatic |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, second time zone, chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | A$53,600 / US$35,800 |