HANDS-ON: Form follows function in the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik
Fergus NashMinimalism can often be used as an excuse by cheap watch brands to get away with lazy design, but the discerning eye will always be able to tell when a corner is being cut. Bauhaus is one of the arts of using minimalism to its maximum effectiveness, where design and function both inform each other to the detriment of neither. Bauhaus done right looks like nothing short of perfection, and the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik is a quality representative.
The case
When considering form and function in a watch case, it’s important to recognise that they affect each other. It’s entirely possible to have a watch with a small diameter look bigger than one with a larger diameter and vice versa, all depending on the proportions. The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik looks big without feeling huge, thanks to the 42mm diameter with a very thin bezel allowing plenty of space for the dial to fill. Although most 42mm watches require decently big wrists to pull off, the lugs are absolutely minimal with a total length of 45mm. This makes things much more comfortable for anyone, and allows people with small wrists to wear it as well.
The finish is entirely polished, imparting a slight air of dressiness that’s not too distracting nor too forgettable as a whole. The bezel flares out at its widest point, before the mid-case and caseback shrink down below the lug joins. This makes the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik look much thinner from a side-on profile, even with a total thickness of 12mm.
The dial
Given that the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik is about 90% dial, it’s a good thing that they’ve given it a lot of attention. The dial is slightly domed, with a more accentuated curve at the perimeter that gets plunged into shadow more readily. This gives the dial a dynamic gradient, almost like a fumé effect depending on the angles at which light hits it. The matte texture is also quite pleasing, with a soft graininess almost like suede.
Fine lines and thin details are a hallmark of Bauhaus watches, even if the architectural side of it embraced boldness and thickness. The printed markers are both pleasing to the eye and meticulously planned, with a separate track for minutes or seconds around the outermost ring and an hour track divided into fifths around the inner ring. The hands lie somewhere between a fencepost and baton style with a tiny strip of luminous paint running down the middle, with each of the hands neatly reaching their corresponding area. The date window at 6 o’clock is neatly placed, not just for symmetry but also making sure it doesn’t clip into any of the markings.
The movement
Keeping costs down, the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik uses the Japanese calibre 8215 from Miyota. It’s their standard movement that’s used in thousands of different models around the world, and although they are known to have a rather noisy winding rotor they are also quite reliable and cheap to service. With a beat rate of 21,600 vibrations per hour, the 21-jewel movement can run for up to 42 hours when fully wound and also includes hand-winding and hacking seconds. The solid caseback features a detailed etching of Hamburg, the port city of Germany which Sternglas are honouring with this release. The seafaring culture of Hamburg also inspired the dial, similar to some nautical instruments.
The strap
Sticking to a vintage appearance, the Sternglas Hamburg Automatik comes by default on a leather strap with a cross-stitched detail, either in mocha brown for the silver dial or black for the black dial. If you want to change things up for a more modern look, Sternglas also sell leather straps in Modena brown, midnight blue, and a silver Milanese bracelet. The lug width is 20mm, so you have infinite aftermarket options too.
The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik pricing and availability:
The Sternglas Hamburg Automatik is available from their website now. Price: AU$634 / US$469 / €399
| Brand | Sternglas |
| Model | Hamburg Automatik |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 12mm (T) x 45mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50m |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Silver / Black |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Leather |
| Movement | Miyota 8215 |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | AU$634 / US$469 / €399 |