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Fumé dial masters H. Moser & Cie reveal a delicious burgundy Pioneer Tourbillon

Fumé dial masters H. Moser & Cie reveal a delicious burgundy Pioneer Tourbillon

Nina Scally
  • Moser’s surprisingly versatile Pioneer Tourbillon gets a luxe fumé burgundy twist.
  • The calibre HM805 inside exposes the gear train and wheels through a wider opening-up of the mechanism.
  • This 18k red gold iteration features a flying tourbillon with a double hairspring to reduce the effects of gravity and friction.

Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy dial

If you have a marked preference for coloured dials, the new H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is bound to coax an involuntary smile out of you. Aiming to please fans with this latest release, the manufacturer (who is known for its lack of overt branding on its dials and playful approach to watchmaking) will likely remind collectors of that cherry-red lollipop moment back in 2020, when the Pioneer Centre Seconds Swiss Mad Red launched, wooing fans with tones akin to a bottle of full-bodied Merlot or juicy red cherries.

That 42mm sports watch was a prime example of a design that successfully blended simplicity and beauty with practical good-for-anything ergonomics. The scalloped lugs and case sides, with a curved case and a supple, rally-style perforated rubber strap, conjured an odd mix until you could see how they interacted with one another in the flesh. This new Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy, however, shrinks the case sightly and dials up the luxury, presenting time on more muted velvety red nuances.

Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy on wrist

Lately, deep red shades seem to be proving popular in both the upper echelons of watchmaking and entry-level brands. Last year, IWC experimented with a burgundy dial and contrasting gold-plated hands with its Portugieser Chronograph Year of the Dragon. At the same time, Panerai teased an oxblood dial colour out of its Luminor Due collection. Even Montblanc dabbled in a bit of maroon, straying from its glacier-inspired palette with a brave and compelling red dial to pep up its Iced Sea collection. Of course, burgundy is a shade that evokes the rare patina bezels of popular vintage references, too.

A Moser Pioneer with a gold case is no new thing. Still, of the brand’s current sports watch collection, this new 18k red gold option is a nice knitter between the sportier steel models and a dressier offering, proving that it could even complement a black tie ensemble should you wish to break the no-watch-with-tux rule. Anyone with experience in wearing the Pioneer will know that the subtle curvature of the case and the cut-out sides make it the wear-anytime-and-anywhere kind of watch that it is. But with a more compact case size of 40mm compared to the time-only Mad Red, there is more grace to enjoy its domed sapphire front without fear of it feeling too clunky.

Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy

These proportions and case finishes, combined with a (contextually impressive) 120-metre water resistance, screw-down crown, and military-green rubber strap, make the new burgundy Pioneer Tourbillon a strong contender for a solid, reliable grab-and-go watch… Which is weird to say of a gold tourbillon piece. Also, the idea that H. Moser & Cie could combine something as elegant as this red gold and burgundy watch with a khaki strap is somewhat of a curve ball, but it works. Even so, the chance to switch out the strap to a leather or sailcloth option could add an interesting spin to this dressier design. H. Moser & Cie does mention there are alligator leather and textile strap options available, so promoting this watch to suit or smart-casual duties shouldn’t be a problem.

The fumé dial is one of Moser’s specialties and requires over 200 steps to achieve. The only detail across its vast sea of deep red is the red gold hour indices and the softly tapering feuille hands, which tie in nicely with the case. The H. Moser & Cie logo itself is executed in a transparent lacquer at 12 o’clock that looks almost invisible in some lights. The lack of branding on a dial is a concept some enthusiasts (like me) will struggle with, but it does comply with the Pioneer’s simplicity.

Moser Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy caseback

Moser clearly wants to fortify a sense of minimalism across this dial – except for the tourbillon, of course. The circular cut-out at 6 o’clock is in total service to the intricate workings of its manufacture calibre HMC 805, which has been carefully considered for more viewing pleasure. It benefits aesthetically from skeletonised bridges in an anthracite finish and a rotor that allows for a broader view of the gear train. It performs at a rate of 21,600vph, guarantees a three-day power reserve, and boasts double hairsprings, oscillating exactly opposite of each other, and keeping their central connection point in the middle of the arbour. The component is developed by the brand’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG – an escapement component manufacturer that’s a master at improving isochronism. Innovations like its own cylindrical hairspring feature in Moser designs.

H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy pricing and availability

The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy is available now. Price: US$65,900, CHF 59,900

Brand H. Moser & Cie
Model Pioneer Tourbillon Burgundy
Reference Number 3805-0400
Case Dimensions 40mm (D) x 12mm (T)
Case Material 18k 5N red gold
Water Resistance 120 metres, screw-down crown
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and back
Dial Burgundy fumé with sunburst pattern, logo in transparent lacquer
Strap Khaki rubber strap, 5N red gold folding clasp
Alligator or textile strap available separately
Movement Calibre HMC 805, in-house, automatic
Power Reserve 72 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Availability Available now
Price US$65,900
CHF 59,900