Gucci brings back its cult-classic interchangeable bezel watch from the 1980s, with some modern improvements
Jamie Weiss- The Gucci Play revives the Maison’s 11/12 ladies’ piece, a bangle watch that came with a number of interchangeable bezels, which was first introduced in the 1980s.
- The 11/12 has become something of a cult classic, with its revival perfectly poised to take advantage of the current obsession with shaped watches.
- This modern reincarnation features ceramic bezels, a larger watch head and a more robust construction.
The term “fashion watch” is typically a derisive one among watch enthusiasts, referring to timepieces from brands primarily known for clothing or accessories rather than watchmaking, that typically disappoint when it comes to specs or design and instead coast on their brand name. Not all fashion houses are guilty of just making fashion watches – brands like Bulgari and Cartier have long been considered legitimate watchmakers, and others like Chanel and Louis Vuitton have markedly improved the quality of their timepieces over the years – but the label is still apt for many watches that big-name luxury brands produce.
Gucci sits somewhere in the middle, with the Italian luxury house’s range of watches best described as inconsistent: at the higher end, Gucci produces some seriously horologically impressive timepieces, with flying tourbillons and métiers d’art, but these sit uncomfortably alongside watches that are really the epitome of fashion watches.
Enter the Gucci Play, which was first introduced in the mid-1980s but has just been revived by the Maison for the 2020s. It’s arguably the most “fashion watch” fashion watch of them all, but I’d argue that in this case, that’s not necessarily a bad thing.
When the Gucci Play made its debut, it was actually quite innovative. Gucci was one of the first big fashion houses to branch out into watchmaking, and the Play reflected the brand’s know-how in crafting versatile accessories. Originally called the 11/12, the bangle-like watch shipped with a wide variety of interchangeable bezels made from plastic and metal that could be screwed on or off to radically change the look of the watch.
This concept of interchangeable bezels or watch elements for ladies’ watches wasn’t a new one: Rolex experimented with the Chameleon in the 1950s, and brands like Bucherer and Nivada Grenchen were doing interchangeable bezels in the 60s and 70s. However, Gucci democratised the concept and, most importantly, made it chic. Indeed, these Gucci 11/12s have had something of a comeback in recent years, with plenty of vintage examples to be found on online marketplaces (with bezel sets of varying completeness). Gucci probably noticed that, and that’s why they’ve brought back the 11/12 as the Gucci Play.
But this is no mere 1:1 revival: Gucci has substantially improved the quality of the watch, adding some welcome modern features. The big one is the interchangeable bezels: the new Gucci Play might only ship with six of them, but they’re now made from ceramic, meaning they’re much more durable and scratch-resistant than the bezels offered with the original. This is a particularly big selling point when you consider that most wearers will likely stack the Gucci Play with other bangles or bracelets.
The bezels are available in seven shades: green, red, pink, white, black and navy, as well as a bicolour bezel in Gucci’s signature green and red.
The bangle of the original was also quite insubstantial. While it remains simple gold-plated stainless steel, the bangle is now much thicker, and the clasp is tougher, too. The watch head has also been slightly enlarged to 28mm in diameter. It’s still quite a demure watch, but it’s more confidence-inspiring. It also has a more reassuring 50-metre water-resistance rating.
I think its packaging is also pretty cool: the watch comes boxed in a lacquered sphere sporting the Gucci green and red with a suede interior section where the watch and bezels are housed. I can see this sitting nicely on a dressing table – it’s an objet d’art as well as a storage solution.
Closing thoughts
Does “fashion watch” need to be such a dirty word? Often, when brands that exist outside of the mainstream watch world approach watchmaking, they do so with an outsider’s sensibility, and can bring novel new solutions and aesthetics to the fore. That’s what Gucci did in the 80s with the 11/12, and that’s what they’ve done again in the 2020s with the Play: it’s a timepiece that embraces its status as a fashion accessory, and by offering different bezels, it can suit a wide range of outfits. It’s also perfectly poised to take advantage of the current trend towards shaped watches, situated in the context of designs like the Cartier Baignoire or the Serica Parade.
It’s canny of Gucci to bring back such a cult favourite, and I’m glad to see they’ve improved the bezels by casting them in ceramic. That said, it’s a bit of a tough sell as far as pricing goes. I suspect the average Gucci customer won’t baulk at the price, but considering it comes with fewer bezels than the original 11/12 and is still just gold-plated steel with a quartz movement, I’m sure that some shoppers will continue to chase vintage examples.
Gucci Play pricing and availability
The Gucci Play watch is now available from Gucci boutiques and via the brand’s online store. Price: €2,500, US$2,950, A$4,700
| Brand | Gucci |
| Model | Play |
| Reference Number | YA151543 |
| Case Dimensions | 28mm (D) |
| Case Material | Gold-toned stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Matte white |
| Strap | 15cm integrated bangle |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, interchangeable bezel |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | €2,500 US$2,950 A$4,700 |