Grand Seiko’s 36.5mm 44GS gets a purple “Kiri” dial with the new SBGW323
Zach Blass- Grand Seiko expands its range of 36.5mm 44GS watches with a new purple “Kiri” dial.
- Though the “Kiri” is a flower, its hue is paired with the Mt. Iwate dial pattern.
- The stainless steel watch is driven by a manually-wound movement, and priced at US$5,600.
Back in 2022, Grand Seiko kickstarted its efforts to bring forth more mid-sized watches into its catalogue. Beforehand, watches largely hovered close to (and beyond) 40mm, joined by very tiny pieces closer to 30mm. We have since seen multiple iterations of the 36.5mm 44GS, beginning with the limited edition and cherry blossom-inspired SBGW289, and then later the leather-strapped SBGW291 and SBGW293 references in 2022. In 2023, 36.5m 44GS watches sold on a bracelet became a configuration for regular production with the SBGW297 and SBGW299 along with the U.S.-exclusive SBGW309, SBGW311, and SBGW313 that shortly followed. Of course, it is worth mentioning we have seen a 38mm 62GS case enter regular production and we now have 37mm Spring Drive watches once again with the new Ice Forrest duo. But furthering the midsize Grand Seiko conversation, the brand also debuts the SBGW323 at Watches and Wonders with a light purple dial.
Almost the entirety of the design framework is familiar, presented in a 100-metre water-resistant stainless steel 44GS case that measures 36.5mm in diameter, 11.6mm thick and 42.7mm lug-to-lug. It is also once again driven by the brand’s entry-level, in-house mechanical calibre, the manually-wound 9S64, with 72 hours of power reserve and a regulation standard of +5/-3 seconds per day. The novelty lies entirely in its dial, executed in a new light purple colour that is inspired by the kiri flower – the official flower of the Iwate region (akin to the bellflower and its meaning to the Shiojiri region). This hue is paired with Grand Seiko’s Mt. Iwate pattern.
It is ultimately a handsome addition to Grand Seiko’s catalogue, and a colour I hope to see incorporated into its Evolution 9 designs with more advanced movements. While the light purple certainly caters to a unisex strategy, its uncommon use in watchmaking could be a nice means of refreshing familiar faces in other segments of the catalogue. With its 100 metres of water resistance, the Grand Seiko SBGW323 is a strong option to purchase considering it is both pretty and robust. Its daily-wearer capability blended with its elegant aesthetic places it in the “robust elegance” category I often tout, both beach and boardroom appropriate.
Grand Seiko Elegance SBGW323 Kiri pricing and availability
The Grand Seiko SBGW323 ‘Kiri’ is available now for purchase. Price: US$5,600
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Brand
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Grand Seiko |
| Model | Elegance Collection 44GS Midsize ‘Kiri’ |
| Reference | SBGW323 |
| Case Dimensions | 36.5mm (D) x 11.6mm (T) x 42.7mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Dials | Purple, Mt. Iwate texture |
| Crystal | Box-domed sapphire |
| Strap | Three-link steel bracelet, folding clasp with push button release |
| Movement | Calibre 9S64, in-house, manually wound |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$5,600 |