Precious cherry blossom – the Grand Seiko SBGH368 debuts a 38mm 62GS case in pink gold

Zach Blass

Grand Seiko is known for its wide range of case geometries that are excellently finished, and various nature-inspired dial patterns rendered in a variety of different hues. One of my favourite case forms is the 62GS, a sharp, faceted shape that highlights how well Grand Seiko brushes and Zaratsu polishes its cases. The 62GS is an important case design in the brand’s history, born in 1967 and notably the first Grand Seiko case to be outfitted with an automatic movement. In the modern era, buyers strictly had a 40mm 62GS case size until February last year when a new 38mm size made its debut. And today, with the new SBGH368 Sakura Kakushi, we have a 62GS cased in precious metal – something we have not seen since the historical 62GS reissues from 2015.

The case

The SBGH368 marks the first time, that a 62GS (branded with Grand Seiko on the dial only) watch has been presented in rose gold in regular production. Yes, you heard that right, it’s not a limited edition. The new SBGH368 measures 38mm in diameter, 12.9mm, and 44.7mm lug-to-lug, blending a modern goldilocks 38mm with a vintage-like wrist span – the best of both worlds. Like the slightly larger 40mm 62GS case, this 38mm case is equally water-resistant, with a screw-down crown-secured 100-metre depth rating.

As a fun fact for us Grand Seiko nerds, Grand Seiko’s mechanical watches are made in Studio Shizukuishi, while Spring Drive and quartz watches are made in Studio Shinshu – and each studio puts its stamp on the watches it creates. This explains why Studio Shinshu’s Spring Drive 62GS watches, like the SBGA413, are brushed from lug to lug on the front, while Studio Shizukuishi’s variant of the 62GS, as seen here, is Zaratsu mirror-polished.

The dial

Looking at the dial, you could mistake it for being the very same rock pattern found on the also cherry-blossom-inspired SBGA413 and SBGY026 references, but it’s not. This dial’s subtly different pattern is the same as what you see on the SBGH341, the SBGH368’s preceding sibling. That being said, it’s not the same silver pink, instead taking on a more coppery hue. The SBGH368’s dial has been curated to evoke a scene of “Sakura Kakushi”, in which snow covers blooming cherry blossoms in the Tohoku area. This colour has also been selected because Grand Seiko feels it better matches the pink gold of the case tone of the hands and indices.

A quick tangent for those who are new to the world of Grand Seiko – the brand’s incredible dials, more specifically their patterns and hues, are the result of advanced layering techniques of moulding, metal plating, and coating. This is a bit of an oversimplification, but these three elements combined are what yields such three-dimensional effects. The moulds, according to Grand Seiko, are crafted using three methods: machine engraving, etching, and hand engraving. For flatter, geometric patterns like the one you would find on the SBGJ261, the mould utilises machine engraving. But for Grand Seiko’s organic, nature-inspired dials, the brand elects to hand-engrave the mould. Grand Seiko believes that hand-engraving as a method is better-suited for this style, and it is this meticulous effort that has birthed beautiful patterns like the Snowflake, Birch, and Iwao rock pattern (as seen on the SBGA413) that have drawn so many collectors into the Grand Seiko universe.

The strap

The SBGH368 looks handsome on its brown crocodile leather strap with a case-matching pin buckle, but I do wish Grand Seiko, or any brand for that matter, would keep in mind that a 100-metre water resistant watch can only live its best life on a water-resistant strap. I recognise most will wear this as a landlocked dress watch, but rubber or fabric, depending on the construction, can be dressed up. Let’s just say that anyone who purchases this watch and commissions a bespoke rubber strap to take this watch for a dip (one it can absolutely withstand) will get a major round of applause from me.

The movement

Inside and exhibited you have the in-house, high-beat automatic 9S85, Grand Seiko’s entry-level 5Hz movement with 55 hours of power reserve. It’s a rock-solid calibre, that under the Grand Seiko Standard, is regulated within +5/-3 seconds per day. Given the 38mm size, this might’ve been the only movement option, but I do wonder whether the 9SA4/5 could’ve been used, with their improved 80-hour power reserves. In some respects, a precious metal watch deserves the best of the best from a brand’s arsenal of calibres. Having said that, the 9S85 is still very much a great movement, and using a latest-gen calibre like the 9SA5 would make an already expensive watch even more so.

The verdict

This new Grand Seiko SBGH368 Sakura Kakushi is not a limited edition. So, if you have decided this is your new grail watch, you do have time to try and save A$46,600 – the watch’s retail price. Though I suspect some would be weary of scratching its fine distortion-free finish, I cannot help but dream of a world in which someone who actually has the purchasing power to bring this into their collection marries this watch with a bespoke rubber strap. As an ultra-luxe daily wearer, sipping Coronas on the sands of Manly beach. See, this American made an Aussie reference.

Grand Seiko Heritage Collection SBGH368 62GS Sakura Kakushi pricing and availability

The Grand Seiko SBGH368 is not a limited edition, and will be available beginning in April 2025 via Grand Seiko boutiques and authorised dealers. Price: US$31,200, A$46,600

Brand	Grand Seiko
Model	Heritage Collection 62GS Hi-beat 36000 Sakura Kakushi
Reference	SBGH368
Case Dimensions	38mm (D) x 12.9mm (T) x 44.7mm (LTL)
Case Material	18k pink gold
Water Resistance	100 metres, screw-down crown
Crystal(s)	Box-domed sapphire crystal front, sapphire caseback
Dial	Copper pink
Lug Width	20mm
Strap	Brown crocodile leather, 18k pink gold pin buckle
Movement	9S85 , in-house, high-beat automatic
Power Reserve	55 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability	April 2025
Price	US$31,200 A$46,600