Glashütte Orginal debuts new Senator Chronograph models that tribute German timekeeping
Zach BlassYes, we have two new chronographs debuting today: the Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph and Senator Chronograph Navigator. But first, let’s take a step back. Despite being a smaller watchmaking town, there are a lot of watchmakers packed into the Glashütte region. They all draw on the history of the region, but Glashütte Original does stand out as the only watchmaker that can truly say it’s been a watchmaker for over 180 years, and it’s a watchmaker that proudly boasts that around 95% of its watches, or more, are designed, manufactured, finished, and assembled in-house.
With so much control over the fabrication and finish of its creations, you know you are getting a very true, pure expression of German watchmaking that never dilutes the traditions that make watches from Glashütte so coveted, while also not being afraid to push the envelope with its dial textures and colours. While Glashütte Original is known for indulging in more explosive, eye-catching colours, with these two new models the distinction is not so much a plainer colour and a bolder colour. It’s more about the sensibility of the dial aesthetic, with the Senator Chronograph Navigator delivering much more of a tool watch feel while the Senator Chronograph feels more elegant with its more dressy dial.
The dials
It’s interesting how two watches with the same case shape, dimensions, and finish, and the same calibre and strap options, can feel so different.
The Senator Chronograph Navigator’s more tool-watch look is not a coincidence. This iteration tributes Glashütte chronographs from the 1940s when the UROFA calibre 59 and the first modern Glashütte wristwatch chronograph were born. The matte, deep black lacquer dial really absorbs all of the light that hits it – making it very easy for the eye to discern the time and chronograph indications as a proper tool watch should.
Speaking of legibility, the Senator Chronograph Navigator has the distinction of having Arabic hour indices crafted from blocks of Super-LumiNova – meaning applied three-dimensional numerals that really light up and add depth to the dial in any setting.
The Senator Chronograph’s dial is more in line with the broader Senator collection, but it is no less rooted in German watchmaking history. Its grained galvanic silver dial and its Roman numerals take inspiration from historic observation watches produced in Glashütte during the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries – robust precision pocket watches that were primarily used for maritime navigation.
However, Glashütte Original has not only heat-blued the steel hands, but also blue-coated the solid gold, applied Roman numeral hour indices. Both dials omit 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock applied hour indices to make room for the two counters, the left counter indicating the running seconds and the right counter a 30-minute elapsed minutes scale for the chronograph.
They also each boast Glashütte Original’s panorama date display at the balanced 6 o’clock position. Though this Dresden Opera House-inspired date display is not exclusive to the brand, its panorama date does have the distinction of being constructed with concentric, co-axial discs on the exact same plane with no overlapping separation, eliminating the vertical centre dividing bar that other watchmakers require to hide the gap between vertically stacked or separated discs. And Glashütte Original offers this complication very often in steel, a notable point of distinction as well.
The case
Both models have 50-metre water-resistant stainless steel cases that are 41mm in diameter and 48.5mm lug-to-lug across the wrist – very much in the larger, but still very safe and favoured range regarding fit. But with a flyback chronograph and panoramic date complications, the watches are probably on the thicker side, right? Wrong. Since the in-house 37-24 calibre inside is just 34.2mm in diameter and 8mm thick, it can accommodate all this functionality with a total case thickness of 12.9mm. I think most people would agree that a chronograph with an in-house movement in a case under 13mm thick is a sign of a very strong design and a very talented watchmaker with a lot of know-how.
That covers off the fit, but in terms of finish, both cases have richly brushed casebands and lugs, with mirror-polished bezels and lug bevels, delivering a utility-driven feel with elevated accents to also offer a sense of elegance and refinement. Though exquisite and well-fabricated externally speaking, the in-house calibre is an equal or greater attraction when it comes to these watches.
The straps
For both watches, you have the same set of three strap options to choose from: a Louisiana alligator leather strap, in black for the Senator Chronograph Navigator and in blue for the Senator Chronograph, a sand-coloured synthetic strap made from recycled materials, and a three-link stainless steel bracelet.
All of these strap options have quick-release systems that make them easy to affix and remove, and for the first time ever for the brand, the folding clasps used for the leather and synthetic straps even have a quick-change mechanism should you wish to remove the folding clasp and put it on another strap option with ease.
Lastly, the bracelet does include a fine adjustment system so you can better find your perfect fit on the wrist.
The movement
The in-house calibre 37-24 is an automatic integrated column-wheel flyback chronograph movement with 70 hours of power reserve and a silicon balance spring to resist magnetism. You also have a skeletonised winding rotor that utilises 21k gold for its mass for more efficient winding.
The decoration of the calibre is meticulous and exceptional, with bevelled edges, black-polished steel components, heat-blued screws, and, of course, the signature three-quarter bridge plate with a handsome Glashütte stripe finish that is not just another name for Swiss Côtes de Genève. Yes, they are both striping finishes, but Glashütte Original’s striping takes three times as long as it requires three passes with each pass 1/100mm deeper. And you can’t just do one pass at 3/100mm as the bridgeplate would get too wobbly and unstable to finish. This makes the stripes, originally a functional design to catch dust and debris, even deeper – adding literal visual depth.
Looking at the balance cock, you will find a Swan’s neck regulator fabricated in-house through ultra-precise wire spark erosion and then black-polished for an exquisite look. Then you have the balance wheel, which is outfitted with solid gold regulating screws for even further movement regulation. And by the way, not only the screws throughout the watch are made in-house, but even the screwdrivers watchmakers use to get them in. This is in-house watchmaking with no asterisks.
The verdict
It’s really impressive how, when you look at this set of chronographs, it’s really only the straps and the silicon balance spring, which is made in-group by Swatch, that are not made in-house. This really affords the brand its own creative autonomy, really acting almost like an independent watchmaker despite being a part of the Swatch Group.
The results speak for themselves, with handsome dials, ergonomic cases, exquisite, high-performing movements, and signature German watchmaking design elements performed by a manufacture that has accumulated over 180 years of know-how. These are two premium chronograph watches, with a price tag that might surprise you – but not in a bad way. On either of two straps, the price is set at US$16,100, and on a bracelet it’s set at US$17,100.
Considering the flyback and panorama date complications, the level of hand-decoration, and the 95% made in-house number that is nearly twice what is required to have the made in Glashütte designation, I think this is a very attractive offering for those who want a very high-quality, truly German and made in Glashütte chronograph watch. As for my pick, I think I would go for the Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph Navigator on the sand-coloured synthetic strap, but there is hardly a weak option amongst the group – totally a matter of personal preference and budget.
Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph & Senator Chronograph Navigator pricing and availability
The new Glashütte Original Senator Chronograph & Senator Chronograph Navigator are both available now for purchase: Price: US$16,100 (strap), US$17,100 (bracelet)
| Brand | Glashütte Original |
| Model | Senator Chronograph Senator Chronograph Navigator |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 12.9mm (T) x 48.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Matte deep black lacquer Galvanic silver, fine grainé finish |
| Strap | Quick-change Louisiana alligator leather strap, Quick-change sand-coloured synthetic strap, quick-change folding clasp Quick-change three-link stainless steel bracelet, butterfly folding clasp, fine adjustment system |
| Movement | Calibre 37-24, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, panorama date, flyback chronograph |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$16,100 (strap) US$17,100 (bracelet) |