Girard-Perregaux debuts its Laureato FIFTY in full steel, regular production, and 36mm/39mm sizes
Zach BlassBack in October of last year, Girard-Perregaux celebrated 50 years of the Laureato with a limited edition model aptly dubbed the FIFTY. The milestone-celebrating design debuted several notable upgrades and refinements – a new 39mm case, slimmer than any of its immediate predecessors, a new, elevated in-house GP4800 movement, and a bracelet with a more dramatic taper and a comfort adjustment system that allows on-the-fly micro-adjustment. However, the watch was two-tone and limited edition, leaving many wondering if and when Girard-Perregaux would launch a Laureato FIFTY in full steel, and one that was not a limited edition. Today, the brand delivers, not just debuting a full steel, regular production Laureato FIFTY, but also a full-on collection with multiple dial styles and case size options.
The cases
Having had the Laureato FIFTY limited edition on loan for a week or so, I recall thoroughly enjoying the new 39mm size, finding it more comfortable and slim than ever before, and thinking it could not get any better. However, having now also tried on the new 36mm size, I was proven wrong. Both will flatter pretty much any wrists, with the 39mm the clear choice for those with above-average-sized wrists and the 36mm the natural option for below-average-sized wrists. But, I have to say, it is not so much a battle between which will suit your wrist more from a size perspective.
If anything, it is more about whether you prefer your watch to have a more classic, vintage presence on the wrist, or a more modern, bold but not too bold presence on the wrist. In terms of exact dimensions and specifications, both stainless steel cases are 150 metres water-resistant with a screw-down crown and 9.8mm thick, but you have the option of a 36mm diameter case or a 39mm case.
The dials
There are three different dials offered among four total configurations. For both the 36mm and 39mm sizes, the first option is an 18k solid rose gold dial decorated with a clous de Paris pattern – a signature modern for the modern Laureato. The date wheel is pleasantly positioned at 3 o’clock with a dial-matching disc in place of an applied index. The hands and applied hour indices are also solid 18k gold and filled with a blue-emitting lume, with the exception being the central seconds hand. There is also a silver dial variant we did not photograph, but this variant is sold with a diamond-set bezel.
For the 39mm size, joining the 18k solid gold dial is a blue enamel dial also decorated with a clous de Paris pattern. Due to its usage of enamel, the blue has much more visual impact than a standard blue dial and looks great in-hand. However, you will notice that this specific variant notably does not show a date complication. This move offers a little extra variety within the collection and appeals to those who may prefer the purity of a no-date. To be clear, this blue enamel, no-date configuration is exclusive to the 39mm size.
The strap
The new steel Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY watches benefit from the new bracelet that debuted on the limited edition, albeit in full steel. The H-shaped links used for the bracelet are more compact in length than what you would find on the previous 38mm and 42mm models, have an increased taper as you work your way down to the clasp, better emphasised bevelling on their edges, and the very welcome comfort adjustment system on each side of the butterfly clasp that allows you to extend or retract the bracelet 2mm on each side as you wish.
The movement
I’ve said it before, and I will say it again, the in-house GP4800 movement is one of the better decorated calibres you will find amongst the competitive set. To recap, the calibre introduced a full balance bridge inspired by the brand’s logo and Three Bridges design, and is made of 18k gold to add visual contrast and an elevated, more luxurious look and feel into the mix. The calibre is by no means just pretty to look at. It utilises a variable inertia balance that improves precision compared to more traditional methods, also leveraging four white gold screws within the balance to allow the watchmakers to more finely regulate the calibre. It also heightens the shock resistance of the calibre. The GP4800 also notably introduced a silicon escapement, vastly improving its resistance against magnetism.
The verdict
My prior verdict and proclamation still stand. Putting aside any hype or investment factors, judging purely on the execution and specs, I personally gravitate more towards the Laureato FIFTY than I would its competitors like the Royal Oak. It is more if-you-know-you-know, with a calibre equally or better decorated, and a performance (at least on paper) that surpasses its direct rival. The slender 39mm case and new and equally slender 36mm offer excellent proportions for all wrists, and despite the more thin and compact sizing, offer a heightened 150-metre depth rating that is multiples greater than its direct rival.
The dials are handsome, the cases well-finished, and the bracelet’s comfort adjustment definitely does not hurt the pound-for-pound matchup evaluation. So, that leaves us with the pricing – US$23,100 for the 18k gold dial variants, US$24,200 for the variant with a silver dial and diamond-set bezel, and US$24,500 for the blue enamel dial variant. For context, when I reviewed the two-tone Laureato FIFTY Limited Edition of 200 pieces, I called out the fact that its US$28,320 pricing was nearly US$10,000 less than a Royal Oak ‘Jumbo’.
To be clear, both are legendary icons worth praise, and I am clear how ridiculous my upcoming statement is outside of the context of luxury watches, but the new Laureato FIFTY models in steel, in my opinion, are very competitively priced. This is high on the list of luxury integrated bracelet watches I think are worth saving up for, and a collection that likely will not have any “for exhibition only” retail games when you are finally ready to pull the trigger.
Girard-Perregaux Laureato FIFTY Stainless Steel pricing and availability
The new Girard Perregaux Laureato FIFTY stainless steel collection is available now for purchase. Price: US$23,100 (18k gold dial), US$24,200 (silver dial/diamond-set bezel), US$24,500 (blue enamel dial)
| Brand | Girard-Perregaux |
| Model | Laureato FIFTY |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 9.8mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel Stainless steel, diamond-set bezel |
| Water Resistance | 150 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | 18k rose gold, clous de Paris-textured Silver, clous de Paris-textured Blue enamel, clous de Paris-textured |
| Strap | Integrated stainless steel bracelet, butterfly folding clasp, 2mm micro-adjust on each side |
| Movement | GP4800, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 60 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds (blue enamel dial) Hours, minutes, seconds, date (silver/18k rose gold dial) |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$23,100 (18k gold dial) US$24,200 (silver dial/diamond-set bezel) US$24,500 (blue enamel dial) |