The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 smashes my preconceptions of a Genta classic

Thor Svaboe

I might not be the most objective person in our team to write this story, given my well-known love affair with the slim, and, to me, sexy as hell 38mm Laureato I aim to get this year. For me this Genta-licious watch in its warm 904L steel is simply one of the best and most accessible players in the integrated bracelet game, but with the Girard Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 I get confused. And that confusion quickly turns to desire.

We have covered the Absolute series before, including a story last year that instigated my deep Laureato infatuation. We can all see the appeal of family diversification. Hublot has the Classic Fusion and larger titanium Big Bangs, so does AP with the Royal Oak and its Offshore tough guy-cousins. But this is somehow a purer, cleaner future vision of the Laureato, channelling Jason Statham in a Gucci suit, not Arnold in full camo.

Unlike the previous more extreme versions of the Laureato Absolute, including dazzling composites and ominous black titanium, these two anniversary versions are no shrinking violets at 44mm, but are subdued in their soft tactility. The sandblasted matte titanium lends a satin smoothness to the touch, and the elegant vibe is enhanced by polished bevels. This is all recognizably Laureato, but the Absolute concept takes the shape and makes it more muscular in its angular form, bold, polished crown guards making no excuses for their intent.

The anniversary bringing these blue and formal grey versions to the table is twofold. Firstly, Girard Perregaux is one of the oldest brands within the upper echelon of Swiss horology, and the 230 stands for the years since its foundation in 1791. By chance this is also the year an English clergyman, William Gregor, discovered titanium. I actually had a titanium 44mm Absolute in my willing possession for a weekend last year, and what struck me most was the comfort. Before trying it on the first time I was ignorant enough to assume it was black DLC steel, so I visibly jumped when the weight was near absent for the size. The ergonomic shape of the original Laureato in 904L steel sizes up beautifully, and the choice of Grade 5 titanium here has one good reason.

This is the first time Girard Perregaux has shown us the complex craft of polishing titanium, something quite different than working with steel, and not mastered by many. The fruits of their labour is a delicate juxtaposition between the satin sheen and grainy surface of the bead-blasted case, with smooth and light catching bevels emphasizing the angular sweep of case profile, while a narrow polished facet makes the octagonal bezel pop with the smallest sliver of light. While I still yearn for the original steel, the extra dimensions this contrast imbues the Laureato with, creates an equally tempting proposition. 

A formal dark grey dial model is launched together with a deep blue version, both with fumè dials and the Absolute detail of a cool sandwich dial construction. This has crisp logo print, while the indexes are cut out to show their Super-Luminova prowess in a more graphic context than a mere fill-in. The GP logo feels balanced and right at home at 12 o’clock, while the sword hands are weaponized compared to the slender hands of the steel version. The polished logo at 12 is balanced out by a discreet date window at 6, unframed and colour matched out of the matte textured surface. The height of 14.65mm means it might struggle to fit under your shirt, but this bold wrist presence does look cool with a tee in summer. The price is less than I was expecting, and makes for a big and bold entry ticket, lower in price than the steel 38 or 42mm classic.

For the blue version you’ll have to get it first at Wempe, as they get a head start before the worldwide launch, and at this price many will be tempted. Under a solid caseback sits the manufacture movement GP03300-1060, a superb calibre unfortunately here hidden, though you’ll be aware of its accurate presence. A 300m depth rating concludes a package that feels like a proper contender in the $10,000USD bracket for tough sports watches, with a certain underplayed elegance here missing in some of its brash competitors.

The rubber strap is based on the well known comfort of FKM rubber, while here for Girard Perregaux there is an injection of titanium, mysteriously under-described in the documentation from GP. So while this is intriguing as it reminds us of the Rolex Oysterflex with its steel insert, we will have to get back to you on the details. So GP if you’re reading this, I would love a hands-on experience, just give me a couple of months (or preferably years).

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230, price and availability:

The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Absolute Ti 230 is EUR 9,400 on a rubber strap

For more details, visit Girard-Perregaux right here.