Girard-Perregaux and Bamford join forces to unveil a retro classic from the past, the Deep Diver
Tom Austin- Girard-Perregaux reimagines its 70s-era Deep Diver for 2025, with the help of British bespoke atelier Bamford Watch Department.
- This new release forms part of Girard-Perregaux’s limited-edition series, the Legacy Editions, with only 350 pieces available for a set period.
- Returning with a dial that is bolder than ever, the Deep Diver has been treated with the joyful eccentricity that is Bamford.
There’s a good chance that the Girard-Perregaux Deep Diver is a watch you never knew existed, and that’s no surprise: it’s an increasingly rare watch that has gone on to gain cult status in vintage circles. The Deep Diver was Girard-Perregaux’s answer to the rising popularity of professional dive watches in the mid-20th century, but came with a more distinct cushion-shaped 70s look, with a futuristic dial that looked like something from Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey.
Fast-forward to 2025, and the Deep Diver is making a return to the Girard-Perregaux lineup as part of its limited Legacy Editions series. What’s even more surprising is that it’s in partnership with British bespoke watch atelier/customiser Bamford Watch Department. BWD is responsible for taking the concept of stuffy Swiss luxury watches and turning it on its head, creating bespoke, colourful reimaginings of iconic wristwatches.
We’re always cautiously optimistic when a brand reintroduces a model from over half a century ago. This is because brands often fail to remain true to the model’s past, and go overboard with contemporary features, completely losing the very spark it’s trying to re-ignite. I suspect that BWD’s founder George Bamford had significant input on this, because the same can indeed not be said for the new Deep Diver. George’s tenacity is fierce when it comes to brands doing things properly, so it’s no wonder that the Deep Diver is true to its original form.
The cushion-shaped case, which is made of lightweight grade 5 titanium, measures 40.3mm by 38mm. It’s a fair size, but it is essentially a diver’s tool; it needs to be. Visually, it appears to be virtually identical to the original model, albeit slightly larger, with radial brushing on the front face and polished chamfers on the thick-set lugs. (The original was cased in steel, making titanium a nice modern upgrade.) Framing the dial is a thin, 14-faceted bezel, again, like the original, and a subtle nod to another iconic 70s Girard-Perregaux model, the Laureato. The overall form oozes 70s coolness, and is functional to boot, offering a 200-meter water resistance.
The functionality doesn’t stop there with the Deep Diver. You’ll notice there are not one, but two crowns protruding from the case, one at 4 o’clock, which is signed with the GP logo and is used for setting the watch, and another at 2 o’clock, which operates the inner ‘compressor’ bezel that rotates around the dial. The typography of the numerals on the bezel is inspired by the retro-futuristic version seen on the original watch. Never one to be subtle, BWD have gone to town on the dial, utilising the blocky aesthetic from the original, and reimagining it with bold blue and neon orange details. It’s a brave look, but it suits the watch and its 70s appeal.
Thankfully, the dial has minimal text, with just a simple Bamford signature and a retro Girard-Perregaux logo, along with a well-integrated date window at 3 o’clock, again, in keeping with its predecessor. It’s a clear and functional dial which, at a glance, you could say is busy, but when you consider its use case, it would actually act as a very functional dive dial, because contrast is so important when underwater, especially at depth.
Originally, the 70s Deep Diver was powered by the Girard-Perregaux calibre 461, an in-house automatic movement, and thankfully, GP have stuck with the familiar recipe. The latest model features the GP03300 calibre, a more modern in-house movement crafted entirely at the brand’s facilities in La Chaux-de-Fonds. It’s a trusted automatic movement used in around 36 other GP models, and as is typical for GP, beautifully decorated with linear and circular Côtes de Genève, polished bevels, mirror-polished screws, and circular graining.
Power reserve is modest at 46 hours, which, against many other luxury diver watches it competes with, is somewhat lacking. However, this movement is usually reserved for watches with perhaps less tool-like presence, and it is meticulously finished, which is more than can be said for most dive watches, at least (although you can only barely admire this finishing through a small, blue-tinted exhibition window).
One feature that didn’t make it over from the original watch is the steel bracelet, as the latest version arrives on a rubber strap. However, Girard-Perregaux have taken the time to mirror the slatted silhouette of its predecessor in the profile of the strap. Each model comes with a pair of quick-release dark blue and orange straps to choose from. They match the dial features perfectly and are finished off with a titanium pin buckle, which is brushed to match the case.
Closing thoughts
The Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver is an exciting addition to the usually quite reserved GP lineup, and you can really tell where Bamford’s influences came in. The wild colours are a perfect choice: not only do they suit the 70s aesthetic and respect the model’s heritage, but they’ve built on the functionality of the original by being so contrasting. Dial colours and case material aside, the entire watch has been tastefully reproduced to honour the model’s legacy, and as such, it’s an extremely fitting addition to the Legacy Editions series. It’s also just a bit wild, and hats off to Bamford – they’ve helped show how retro watches don’t have to be boring.
Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver pricing and availability
The Girard-Perregaux x Bamford Deep Diver is limited to 350 pieces and is available through all Girard-Perregaux retailers worldwide and online at bamfordwatchdepartment.com. Price: US$15,100, A$25,100, NZ$28,100
| Brand | Girard-Perregaux x Bamford |
| Model | Deep Diver |
| Reference | 39500-21-3266-6CX |
| Case Dimensions | 40.3 (D) x 13.91mm (T) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 200 meters, screw down crowns |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front, blue-tinted sapphire exhibition window at back |
| Dial | Blue & neon orange |
| Strap | Blue & neon orange rubber straps, titanium hardware |
| Movement | GP03300, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 46 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, internal diving bezel |
| Availability | Limited edition of 350 pieces |
| Price | US$15,000 A$25,100 NZ$28,100 |