THE HOME OF WATCH CULTURE

Gérald Genta perfects colour play with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Gérald Genta perfects colour play with the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal

Buffy Acacia
  • The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal perfects the chaotic formula it revived in 2024.
  • There are 137 fire opals screwed into the 18k gold case, and the dial is made of natural carnelian.
  • The case is 36.5mm in diameter with a faceted sapphire crystal, and it’s powered by an automatic Zenith Elite base calibre.

The very name Gérald Genta has been in an industry-wide tug of war for decades, with each brand claiming to have had the most authentic relationship with the famed designer. But as much as his stylistic influence has been reduced to integrated bracelet sports watches with geometric cases or bezels, it’s his eponymous brand that has broken the mould. Admittedly there is still an aquatic theme which ties everything together, but the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is guaranteed to be unlike any other Genta design you’ve ever seen.

Gerald Genta Fire Opal Gentissimo Oussin 1

If you feel like the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin looks familiar, perhaps you’ve been exploring some rock pools recently. The studded case is based on a sea urchin’s skeleton, with small buds poking from where spikes once grew. Last year we saw a fairly wild take on the Gentissima Oursin revival, which was the first release from the Genta brand under its recent LVMH ownership. Its black case and gold studs felt almost like a formal take on a punk jacket, and there were also pink and grey references with more of a beaded look. They weren’t the easiest to get used to, but while that first trilogy felt like a new brand finding its footing, this new Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal has finally hooked me, finessing the balance between beauty and outrageous daring.

Gerald Genta Fire Opal Gentissimo Oussin 2

Before mentioning the technical aspects, the thing I appreciate most about this Gérald Genta reference is that the gold and orange colouring feels much more naturalistic and respectful to the urchin inspiration. I sense that a more holistic approach was taken in the design of this watch than the previous models, and it has paid off substantially. I’m also a gemmology nerd, and the Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal is full of surprises. Carnelian, a name given to red-orange chalcedony, provides the soft glow of the dial upon which shadows from the faceted sapphire crystal leave a mesmerising pattern. But fire opals are in the name, and they demand the most attention.

Mexican fire opal
A rough sample of fire opal mined in Queretaro, Mexico.

Individually screwed into the case, 137 fire opal beads that were likely sourced from Mexican mines shoot out flecks of red, yellow and green with perfect natural chaos. As an amorphous silica mineraloid, the colour pattern of natural opals is beautifully unpredictable in how they disperse light. Add in the sparkle of the 18k 3N yellow gold case, and this is a serious piece of flash for the wrist. The hands on the dial are perhaps the only truly recognisable Genta hallmarks from the rest of his back catalogue, nearly identical to the hands on the original Royal Oak.

Being an LVMH production, the Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal has a movement that’s shared with Zenith. The GG-005 is specifically based on the automatic Zenith Elite 670 with a 50-hour power reserve and a 4Hz beat rate, although you won’t see the smooth ticking as there is no seconds hand, and the date function has been removed. In terms of wearability, the 36.5mm case is the perfect middle ground between vintage charm and modern presence, and the 137 fire opals aren’t going to let this watch go unseen under any circumstances. The thickness is 9.64mm, so it could slip under a cuff if you were desperate to hide it for some reason.

Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal price and availability

The Gérald Genta Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal will be available in May 2025. Price: TBC

Brand Gérald Genta
Model Gentissima Oursin Fire Opal
Case Dimensions 36.5mm (D) x 9.64mm (T)
Case Material 18k 3N yellow gold with 137 fire opal beads
Water Resistance 30 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire
Dial Carnelian
Strap Black leather, pin buckle
Movement GG-005, Zenith Elite 670 base, automatic
Power Reserve 50 hours
Functions Hours, minutes
Availability Available from May 2025
Price TBC