Gérald Genta gives Genevan inspiration for its latest time-only creation
Russell Sheldrake- Gérald Genta adds to its Geneva collection with two new time-only models for LVMH Watch Week 2026, following on from the Minute Repeater of last year.
- They come in two shades of gold, rose and white, with matching textured dials.
- Rather than being a design from the Genta archives, it was penned by the Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Matthieu Hegi.
When we talk about watch design, one name comes above all others: Gérald Genta. And there is a good reason for this, despite there being a pantheon of incredible designers both past and present, as Genta was the first watch designer to be publicly lauded for his work that was paired with his uncompromising approach to everything he put his pen to. So when, 15 years after his death, a new design is released with his name on, we must all sit up, take notice and consider it among his wider canon of work.
One thing to know out of the gate with this watch is that it was not a design found in the Genta archives; this was penned by the Artistic Director of La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton, Matthieu Hegi. Taking inspiration from Genta’s work, this rounded square shape feels right at home with his name on the dial, and the considered details that we are going to get into now all make perfect sense when compared to the watches produced by the Maestro.
You would be forgiven for thinking this watch looks rather familiar, as its design was first used last September for the brand’s Minute Repeater. The case dimensions have changed slightly, having shrunk from 40mm across and 9.6mm thick to 38mm across and 8.15mm thick. The shape of this watch has been highly considered, with this rounded square design being the one that made the cut. In order to preserve the shape of this watch as much as possible, Hegi opted for a singular, central lug, a design often found on ladies’ dress watches that keeps this watch feeling as elegant as possible.
The stepped, rounded bezel adds an extra layer of reflectiveness to this watch as it comes highly polished and is mirrored in its form by the rounded baton markers and hands. The trick of stepping a bezel like this also gives the visual illusion that the watch is ever so slightly smaller than it is, and allows your eye to be drawn directly into the dial. This trick works just as well across both the rose gold and white gold versions.
Both of these different gold variations come with their own dial to play off the metal colour. The rose gold dial has a gradient that shifts from a dark brown at the edge to a light sandy tone in the middle, while the white gold dial goes from a black, through to a silvery grey at its centre. Both are finely grained, which adds a pleasant and interesting texture to the dials, amplifying the effect of the gradient as the light plays across the small ridges and divots.
The dial has also been kept clean, with the only text being the brand’s word mark and thin baton markers taking up as little space as possible. Outside of these hour markers is a highly considered minute track that is round on its inside edge to reflect the movement of the hands, while on its outer edge it forms the squared shape of the case. This makes the time-telling function of this watch feel like it fits naturally into this ‘squircular’ case.
Turn the watch over, and you’ll see a Zenith Elite movement. This automatic calibre dates back to 1994 in its original state, and has gone through a few upgrades over the last 30-ish years. It was originally developed by Gérald Genta’s now-LVMH stablemate Zenith so it could create a reliable automatic movement at scale that would stand up to the brand’s high standards. The version that has been used here offers 50 hours of power reserve while running at 4Hz: a fairly standard set of specs for today’s market and this price point, but you are buying into the design of this watch more than its horology.
Gérald Genta Geneva price and availability
The new Gérald Genta Geneva collection is available now. Price: CHF 25,000
| Brand | Gerald Genta |
| Model | Geneva |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 8.15mm (T) |
| Case Material | Rose or white gold |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Textured brass in beige or grey |
| Strap | Case colour-matching calfskin leather |
| Movement | Zenith Elite, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours and minutes |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 25,000 |