Gerald Charles’s first hardstone dial model, the Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin, celebrates Genta’s favourite stone
Jamie WeissThe legendary late watch designer Gérald Genta is best known for his iconic, architectural watch designs – but he was also known as a particular lover of stone dials. Many of Genta’s most famous creations had stone dial variants, including the Rolex Cellini King Midas, the Universal Genève Golden Shadow and numerous models produced under his eponymous brand. But there was one stone he was reputedly most fond of: lapis lazuli. That’s why the latest Maestro 2.0 from Gerald Charles, the last watch brand founded by the exalted designer to bear his name, is a fitting tribute – and one that reinforces our current craze for stone dials.
The case
The Gérald Charles Maestro’s case is one of only a few asymmetrical designs that Mr. Genta penned throughout his long career, with the bottom half of its case inspired by the concave façade of the San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane designed by the eccentric 17th-century Roman architect Francesco Borromini. It’s distinctly neoclassical, much like many of Genta’s later designs – which lie in stark contrast to the more industrial patterns that defined his early career.
Crafted from high-polished stainless steel, the bezel of the Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin features a blue Colormix coating: a combined physical and chemical surface treatment that Gerald Charles explains provides for an exceptionally azure finish as well as improved scratch resistance. Indeed, it makes the bezel look almost glass-like at some angles and frames the lapis dial nicely.
As this watch’s self-explanatory name implies, its case is only 9mm thick: it’s not going to challenge Konstantin Chaykin or Bulgari for any title, but with that slinky bezel, it slides under a cuff beautifully. Slightly longer than it is wide, it measures up at 39mm by 41mm, with its lugs adding little to its overall length.
The dial
The dial of the Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin is the main event here, and it’s one worth tuning in to. This represents the first hardstone dial from Gerald Charles, and they haven’t half-arsed it. “As each dial is cut and polished from an initial 5mm thick disc down to a final thickness of just 0.55mm, a majority will be discarded as previously invisible imperfections are revealed. Ultimately, to make 50 dials at least 150 discs will be needed,” the brand explains.
They elaborate that each individual dial takes on average 24 hours to complete – they explain that shaping the lapis lazuli to the Maestro’s distinctive silhouette is the hardest part. In my view, it’s well worth it. It’s hard to compare lapis dials in isolation as by the very nature of the stone, each dial is unique. However, the example we had in for review didn’t disappoint, with an attractive array of pyrite and calcite flecks.
Atop this semi-precious stone dial sits unobtrusive yet functional Super-LumiNova-filled indices and a printed chemin de fer minute track in white – not much you can complain about there – with a date window found at 6 o’clock, nestled in the “smile” of the Maestro’s lower case. This model also debuts a tweaked logo for Gerald Charles, with slightly more pronounced lettering and the inclusion of “Geneve” below the logotype.
The strap
Complementing the Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin’s blue dial and bezel is a robust royal blue vulcanised rubber strap, with a clous de Paris-esque textured upper and a stainless steel pin buckle. It’s a sporty choice for an otherwise somewhat dressy watch, but one that suits the hybrid vibe of the Maestro well.
The movement
Under the hood beats the GC2.0-A movement, an automatic calibre developed in collaboration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier S.A. (based on the VMF 3002) and customised for Gerald Charles. An aesthetically laid-out movement, Gerald Charles notes it’s been finished to Qualité Fleurier standards, with a combination of côtes de Genève, perlage, colimaçonnage, and yellow gold engraving. It beats at 4 Hz, has a 50-hour power reserve, and is topped with a special gold oscillating rotor with a hexagonal design that commemorates the brand’s 25th anniversary. Vaucher is widely regarded as one of the finest movement suppliers in the biz, and represents a substantial upgrade over the Soprod-sourced movements some previous Gerald Charles models utilised.
The verdict
Stone dials are experiencing an unprecedented resurgence in popularity right now, so this Gerald Charles Maestro arrives at the perfect time. It’s a clear standout among the current Maestro 2.0 range: demure, yet visually exciting, it leans into a dressier vibe while still remaining notably sporty for a stone dial watch. This is the Gerald Charles model I’d get.
Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin pricing and availability
The Gerald Charles Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin is now part of the brand’s main collection and is available for pre-order from Gerald Charles’ online boutique. Delivery is scheduled for 2 months after pre-order. Price: A$36,600, US$21,900, CHF 18,600, €18,600, £16,700 (ex VAT)
| Brand | Gerald Charles |
| Model | Maestro 2.0 Lapis Lazuli Ultra-Thin |
| Reference Number | GC2.0-SSPS-LS-RSPN |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 9mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel with blue Colormix-treated bezel |
| Weight | 87.7 g |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Lapis lazuli |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Strap | Royal blue vulcanised rubber strap, steel pin buckle |
| Movement | GC2.0-A, Vaucher VMF 3002 base, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 50 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Available now for pre-order |
| Price | A$36,600 US$21,900 CHF 18,600 €18,600 £16,700 (all ex VAT) |