Georges Kern answers the tough questions: Breitling’s bold vision at Dubai Watch Week

Time+Tide

We caught up with Georges Kern at Dubai Watch Week, and true to form, the Breitling CEO didn’t shy away from the challenging questions our community submitted. From accusations of abandoning aviation heritage to ambitious plans for a ‘House of Brands’, Kern laid it all out with characteristic candour.

The aviation question everyone’s asking…

Let’s address the elephant in the room: has Breitling abandoned its pilot’s watch DNA? Kern’s response is unequivocal. “We don’t leave behind the cockpit,” he insists, pointing to three distinct pilot’s watch lines, the Classic AVI, Navitimer, and Avenger. “We’re by far the number one in pilot’s watches in the market.” But here’s the revelation: Breitling was always more than just aviation. When Kern first joined and dove into the archives with Fred Mandelbaum, he discovered the Premier, the Top Time, and the original SuperOcean. “I think today we are more faithful to the brand than we’ve ever been,” he argues, and frankly, the man has a point.

Success speaks louder than critics

When pressed about diluting the tool watch DNA, Kern offers a refreshingly pragmatic take: “Whatever you do, you will be criticised. If you’re a tool watch, people will say you’re too niche. If you broaden your image, people will say you broaden too much.” His trump card? Success. Breitling’s average price has climbed from €4,300 to €7,200 over seven years, largely driven by the industrialisation of their in-house B01 and B31 movements. The mission is clear: crack the top five watch brands globally. Kern’s strategy centres on “consistency, coherence, and iconisation” of the Navitimer, Chronomat, and SuperOcean Heritage, three lines representing 75% of turnover. The striking statistic? Only 20% of the target market knows the “new Breitling.” That’s both the challenge and the opportunity.

The ‘House of Brands’ expands

Perhaps the most intriguing revelation concerns Breitling’s multi-brand strategy. Next year sees the launch of Gallet, positioned between €2,500-5,000 to cover the entry-luxury segment that Breitling has outgrown. With Sellita movements and “wanderlust” storytelling centred on exploration and safari, Gallet will be sold in Breitling boutiques as a sister brand. Then there’s the mysterious Universal Genève, which Kern describes cryptically as “for those who don’t want to drive a Rolls-Royce but don’t want to drive a Lamborghini.” High-end positioning confirmed, details deliberately sparse.

The B01/Tudor/Kenissi partnership

We asked the question many thought Kern might dodge: would he communicate the Tudor partnership differently if he could go back in time? His response is refreshingly straightforward: “I love that partnership. I had breakfast with Jean-Frederic [Dufour] the other day. It’s all good.” The debate that raged five or six years ago has, in Kern’s view, simply disappeared. Ultimately, Kern believes that the market appreciates the strength of the B01 calibre – even if some confusion exists around its collaborative origins.

The final word

When asked what percentage complete his mission is, Kern demurs, “You’re never done.” But his parting message to those who haven’t visited Breitling in six or seven years is simple: get into one of their 300 boutiques. Experience the new Breitling firsthand. Whether you agree with the direction or not, one thing’s undeniable: George Kern is playing the long game, and he’s not afraid to answer the tough questions along the way.