GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold

GENEVA WATCH DAYS: The Bulgari novelties find a luxe upgrade for the Octo in gold

Fergus Nash

In March this year, Bulgari released the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with the Octo Finissimo Ultra, only to be beaten again in July by the Richard Mille RM UP-01 Ferrari by just 0.05mm. While creating another record-breaking watch within a handful of months would be inconceivable, the Bulgari lineup for Geneva Watch Days offers an elegant and daring display of contrasts while they (presumably) work towards taking their title back.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days

While thickness is often the headline behind exceptional Octo Finissimo releases, this time the masterminds at Bulgari have designed their new watch around showcasing the extra-fine calibre BVL 199 SK. The movement is still incredibly thin, with the entire watch’s height coming in at just 5.95mm, but the focus is placed on the 8-day power reserve which is boldly indicated on the dial next to the small seconds subdial. The grey sprawling bridges that stretch across the watch face are strictly structured in a way that echoes the lines of the Octo Finissimo case — itself a love letter to the architecture of Ancient Rome. That blend of beautifully orchestrated industrialism is complimented by the colour scheme, with an 18k pink gold case, the anthracite ‘dial’, and a chocolate brown alligator strap.

Brand Bulgari
Model Octo Finissimo Skeleton 8 Days
Case Dimensions 40mm x 5.95mm x 46.5mm
Case Material 18k Pink Gold
Water Resistance 30 Metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and rear
Dial Skeletonised grey and brown
Lug Width 30mm
Strap Dark brown alligator leather with pin-buckle
Movement BVL 199 SK
Power Reserve 192 hours (8 days)
Availability TBC
Price TBC

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Gold

Bulgari Geneva Watch Days

As if the Bulgari Octo Finissimo needed any more wow factor, we’re being treated to three new references within an 18k gold case. If you’re thinking that the Octo Finissimo range should be above the “bling” factor that gold usually carries with it, then you have nothing to worry about. The warmth of the rose gold is brought out by a deep chocolate sunburst dial and a matching alligator strap, almost playing into a 1970s palette with more class. The first 40mm model is a simple time-only affair that brings an elegant air of confidence with its solid gold bracelet — a touch of luxury that’s sure to make you feel good whenever you check the time. The second uses the BVL 318 calibre for chronograph and GMT complications within a 43mm case, bridging the design into a sportier territory. The third and final reference is a limited edition (ref. 103717) of only 50 pieces exclusive to the US market, this time using yellow gold instead of rose gold for a little extra pop on the wrist.

Brand Bulgari
Model Octo Finissimo Automatic (ref. 103717+103637) / Octo Finissimmo Chronograph GMT Autommatic
Case Dimensions 40mm x 5.95mm x 46.5mm / 43mm x 8.75mm x 48mm
Case Material 18k Pink Gold / 18k Yellow Gold (103717)
Water Resistance 100 Metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and rear
Dial Deep chocolate sunburst dial
Lug Width 30mm / 33mm
Strap Dark brown alligator leather with pin-buckle / 18k gold bracelet
Movement BVL 138 / BVL 318
Power Reserve 60 hours / 55 hours
Availability TBC
Price TBC

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Sejima Edition

Bulgari Geneva Watch Days

In a collaborative design between Bulgari and renowned Japanese architect Kazuyo Sejima, this limited edition of 360 pieces really needs to be seen as a real-life object before proper judgement is passed. With focus on contrast and transparency, the sapphire crystal is laden with mirror-like dots that form a sort of mesh effect, allowing you to view the hands beneath with an air of mystique. The case is also entirely polished, throwing some facets into bright silver relief while others are plunged into blackness. Sejima’s autograph is signed on the rear sapphire display crystal, with the calibre BVL 138 proudly visible. The micro-rotor allows for automatic winding while containing the case’s overall thickness to just 6.4mm.

Brand Bulgari
Model Octo Finissimo Automatic Sejima Edition
Case Dimensions 40mm x 5.95mm x 46.5mm
Case Material Stainless Steel
Water Resistance 100 Metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and rear
Dial Skeletonised grey and brown
Lug Width 30mm
Strap Steel bracelet with folding buckle
Movement BVL 138
Power Reserve 60 hours
Availability TBC
Price TBC

Bulgari Bulgari

Bulgari Geneva Watch Days

The self-titled Bulgari is somewhat of an underdog in the Italian brand’s modern catalogue, despite being a staple of their watches for over 40 years. The round case with block lugs and an integrated bracelet provides a pure, undiluted dose of Bulgari essence with the mirrored logo etched into the bezel. This new version of the Bulgari Bulgari takes aim at a streetwear vibe with black DLC applied to a stainless-steel case and bracelet, with a sterile black lacquer dial that gives ultimate contrast to the silver hands and hour markers. The 41mm reference comes equipped with a small date display courtesy of the automatic BVL 191 movement, while the smaller 33mm version is time-only with a quartz movement.

Brand Bulgari
Model Bulgari
Case Dimensions 33mm x 38mm / 41mm x 47mm
Case Material Stainless steel with black DLC
Water Resistance 50 Metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front
Dial Black lacquer
Lug Width 19mm / 24mm
Strap Steel bracelet with black DLC and folding buckle
Movement Quartz B043 / BVL 191
Power Reserve 42 hours
Availability Available from Bulgari’s webstore and boutiques
Price $5,600 AUD / $7,500 AUD

Bulgari Serpenti Seddutori

The world of feminine watches is constantly yearning for creativity, and the Serpenti Seddutori is always a range worth browsing. The snake’s head case shape doesn’t just provide a smooth and interesting alternative to round, rectangular or tonneau shapes, it also conjures specific images of seduction and temptation. For Geneva Watch Days, Bulgari present four new Serpenti references with some truly unexpected results. The first reference and the most surprising of the bunch is the Serpenti Seddutori Tourbillon, with the prized horological complication featured amongst an explosion of precious stones. The 3.65mm thick case plays home to the calibre BVL 150, proving that Bulgari take this watch as seriously as any of their other high-luxury pieces. The case and bracelet are made from white gold, but this practically becomes invisible to the eye behind the dazzling diamonds and spinels.

Next are two of the ‘standard’ Serpenti Seddutori models, mixing more black-coated steel with rose-gold bezels and dial details, with or without diamonds set into the bezel. Lastly is the Bulgari Serpenti Spiga Ceramic, taking on the same overall appearance as the previous diamond-set reference but now in a case of black ceramic and bonded to a wrist-wrapping ceramic bracelet.

Brand Bulgari
Model Serpenti Seddutori / Spiga
Case Dimensions 34mm x 9.4mm / 33mm / 35mm (Spiga)
Case Material 18k white gold / stainless steel with black DLC / black ceramic
Water Resistance 30 Metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front
Dial Diamond pavé / black
Lug Width 17mm / 16mm / 18mm
Strap 18k white gold / stainless steel with black DLC / black ceramic
Movement BVL 150 / Quartz
Power Reserve 40 hours
Availability TBC
Price TBC