Gagà Milano goes experimental with the new Laboratorio Labormatic collection
Borna BošnjakThe watch world can often be a pretty cut-and-dry environment, with many enthusiasts becoming satiated with yet another black-dialled, mid-century styled diver. While there’s a time and place for such watches too, every once in a while, a brand introduces something that’s actually a novelty, rather than just a rehashing of its back catalogue. Not that Gagà Milano has ever had to worry about that, with most of the brand’s collections focusing on the unusual and quirky. Founder Ruben Tomella has recruited the help of Mo Coppoletta (tattoo artist, designer, and lover of independent watchmaking) to create Gagà Laboratorio, a new direction for the brand, focused squarely on the potentially jaded enthusiast. The new Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta and Bauhaus models make a point to tell time in an unusual fashion, doing so in a case whose design combines space age and Art Deco, with the signature Gagà Milano-style case completing the unique package.
The dial
Seeing these watches for the first time, what immediately struck me was the dial. I’ll admit, it took me a second to realise what was going on, though deciphering the time is really not that difficult. The aperture at 12 o’clock houses the hour indicator, while the middle segment indicates the minutes. Finally, the rotating Gagà Laboratorio logo in the centre functions as a pseudo-seconds indicator, replacing a traditional central seconds hand.
Examining the dials more closely, there’s yet again a curious mix of elements and styles. You could technically call the Labormatic a sector dial, though by no means in a traditional sense. The digital hours are highlighted by the red triangle, pointing out the double-stamped numbers for each hour. Unlike the Cinquanta model, the Bauhaus omits the stylised typeface for the minutes, instead going for elongated indices and a red lollipop pointer hand.
The case
While I’m sure the dials will be the immediate draw for the new Gagà Labormatic, I implore you not to overlook the case. At 42mm in diameter and 13.3mm in height, it’s not a small watch, though I suspect it won’t wear overbearingly large on most wrists given the pebble-like case shape. Consisting of seven parts, the case’s most prominent feature is its lugs: the kind you might see on a vintage JLC, but thoughtfully exaggerated. This has been a Gagà signature element on most of its offerings, but the stepping, change of finish, and integrated crown at 12 make this a much more cohesive and subtle design.
Mostly taking on a polished finish, brushing is used to highlight elements like the aforementioned lugs, flowing into the midcase. I’m a fan of the crown positioning at 12, which has been beaded and given a ball-bearing-like cabochon. Overall, the case is the sort of whimsical design you may expect to see from a “Disco Volante” watch that was made in the space age of the 1970s, and I love it.
The strap
Watch brands, especially smaller ones, often forget to pay attention to the hardware of the straps. The leather, rubber, or textile itself could be nice enough, only to be fitted to an uninspiring, pressed pin buckle. Thankfully, Gagà has thought of this too, integrating the new Laboratorio logo into the buckle to go alongside the grey or black Saffiano leather strap.
The movement
Turning the watch over, you’ll be met with another instance of the Gagà Laboratorio logo, this time in the form of a full-size rotor. Other than this modification, the La Joux-Perret G100 that powers the Labormatic seems largely unmodified, with minimal decoration peering through the openings of the oscillating weight. We’ve seen increased use of this movement since its recent arrival to the market, often used as a midway point between the ETA 2824 and its derivatives, and the higher-end ETA 2892/Sellita SW300 calibres. Specs include a 4Hz beat rate and 68-hour power reserve, with the architecture closely resembling that of the Miyota 9000-series, with improvements to the anti-shock device and regulator.
The verdict
Unusual design is not rare in the micro/independent watch sphere. What is rare is good design that just happens to be unusual. Thankfully, the Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic falls into the latter category and is an exciting, albeit pricey new competitor. Bringing on Mo Coppoletta was clearly a beneficial move, with the Labormatic’s space-age design certainly benefiting from the tattoo artist and designer’s previous experience with the likes of Bulgari. Its LJP movement can be found in more affordable watches, especially considering Gagà didn’t spring for the addition of a jumping hour modification, hence the reason for the double-printed numbers. This isn’t a major issue, though, as the movement is a solid performer, and not the main drawcard of this release in the first place.
Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic Cinquanta and Bauhaus pricing and availability
The Gagà Laboratorio Labormatic is now available in two colourways. Price: CHF 3,900 (ex. VAT, ~US$4,500)
| Brand | Gagà Laboratorio |
| Model | Labormatic Cinquanta Labormatic Bauhaus |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 13.3mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Green, white, gold (Cinquanta) Black, silver (Bauhaus) |
| Strap | Black or grey Saffiano leather, steel pin buckle |
| Movement | La Joux-Perret G100, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 68 hours |
| Functions | Digital hours, minutes, small seconds disc |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | CHF 3,900 (ex. VAT) |