Furlan Marri celebrates four years with the Red Hunter, a limited release with an officer’s caseback
Borna BošnjakLooking back at the amount of excitement that the brand has generated since it was founded, add to that achievements like a GPHG award and an evolution of the secular perpetual calendar, and you’d think that Furlan Marri has been around for a lot longer than just four years. And yet, you’d be wrong. While the duo of Andrea Furlan and Hamad Al Marri aren’t spearheading the most prolific independent brand in terms of release cadence, you can hardly fault them for it given how well-executed and manufactured their watches are. Whether you’re looking at the entry-level mechaquartz chronographs, our own Outback Elegy collab, or the hand-finished Peseux of the Disco Volante, I doubt that you’d be disappointed. Naturally, most people I know like a little treat for their birthday, and it looks like Furlan Marri is no different. To celebrate four years and their journey from Kickstarter micro to a leading independent, the brand is unveiling the Furlan Marri Red Hunter, and we had the chance to spend some time with it before the covers lifted.
The case
Before we get into the watch, a brief history lesson is in order. A hint to what makes the Red Hunter special is in its name, referring to an early pocket watch style that would eventually influence wristwatches too. Before the advent of hard-wearing sapphire crystals, watch glass was one of their more fragile components, so having a metal lid covering it for additional protection was fairly common. Also known as savonnette cases (“little soap” in French), their popularity would wane with the advent of more advanced crystals, but would not disappear entirely. Manufacturers like Zurbrüegg and Huguenin Frères would continue to make these cases in the early 1910s, even patenting their designs. These days, only some pocket watches still feature the design for the front of the dial, but there are quite a few watches, both of the pocket and wrist variety, that add the charming touch to their casebacks, simply as a nod to the past.
That’s exactly what Furlan Marri has done with the Red Hunter. The 36mm case with its oversized, screw-down crown is reminiscent of those early wristwatches, perhaps inspired by designs heralding a generation or two after pocket-converted trench watches. I was also pretty pleased to discover that the additional case complexity didn’t add too much thickness – the Red Hunter measures in at 11.6mm in height. With a short, 43.9mm lug-to-lug width and that big crown, however, it’s noticeable on-wrist.
Something that the press shots you might’ve seen curiously do not show is that the Red Hunter has drilled lugs. Sure, the provided straps are already quick-release-equipped, but it’s certainly in the spirit of the time that inspired its design.
The finishing is great, as I’d expect from Furlan Marri considering their previous efforts, with the brushed mid-case sandwiched between two polished elements – the double-stepped bezel and sterile caseback cover that sports a handy notch for easier opening. And speaking of the caseback, it really surprised me with just how reflective it was – I think the pic above explains it better than I could. Something about pictures and thousands of words…
The dial
The hinged caseback is a cute touch, but you’ll spend most of your time looking at the dial – so, is it any good? Sure, beauty may be in the eye of the beholder, but I’ll be honest, if you don’t think this dial is beautiful, there may be something else in your eye obscuring your vision. It’s a complex design, but with details that are subtle enough not to overpower each other. The minute track is just the right tone of off-white not to stand out too much, and the raised section for the hour markers makes sure the dial doesn’t appear flat. Cover it all in an inky black lacquer, and you’ve got a recipe for success.
Zooming in even closer, I really love how the Roman hour markers follow the topography of the dial, undulating as they pass over the raised section. The lance handset is also superbly executed. It’s rare to find smaller brands at more affordable price points pay such close attention to the design of the hands, and even when done well, they’re usually not the stand-out feature. Here, their convex shape gives them subtle presence, with the curved tips being the cherry on top.
The strap
The model that landed in the Melbourne Studio was equipped with a grained, black leather strap with red stitching to match the central seconds hand. It tapers nicely towards the clasp, but is otherwise just an accompaniment to the main event rather than a particularly interesting design feature.
What I really hope to experience in-person soon is the five-link bracelet that will be available too. Not only is it a new design for Furlan Marri, ut it also seems to be a riveted design, which is rare nowadays. Tudor uses a faux-rivet style for some of its Black Bay models – and fairly controversially so, at least in the model’s infancy – so I’m looking forward to reading the discourse about Furlan Marri’s take.
The movement
Similarly to their Mechanical Sector models – now renamed the Cornes de Vache – the Red Hunter sports the automatic La Joux-Perret G100. It’s a movement that’s slowly becoming more and more common as an alternative to the tried-and-true ETA 2824 and Sellita SW200, namely beating those two with a better power reserve (68 hours vs 38-42 hours) and less thickness (4.45mm vs 4.6mm). The G100’s architecture closely resembles that of the Miyota 9000, which makes sense considering the latter owns the movement manufacturer, though the G100 does have superior finishing and a different regulator.
The final Easter egg of the Red Hunter hides on the reverse of its hinged officer’s caseback. The commemorative engraving of the brand’s four-year anniversary includes an unavoidable number 4, and the slogans “crafted with care” and “designed for details”.
The verdict
Though watches are becoming more mainstream, they’re still a fairly niche product, so even a smaller, independent brand like Furlan Marri needs to try and make their designs appealing to the masses, too. The Red Hunter feels like it’s fully catering to the enthusiast community, however, with its smallish diameter (36mm is perfect if you ask me) and hinged caseback. I like to think of it as a sort of thank you to the brand’s supporters and fans over their short, but successful lifespan.
Furlan Marri Red Hunter pricing and availability
The Furlan Marri Red Hunter will be available for pre-orders from the Time+Tide Shop on the 23rd of April at 14:00 London time (BST) or 23:00 Melbourne time (AEST). Price: A$3,490, £1,850
Brand | Furlan Marri |
Model | Red Hunter |
Case Dimensions | 36mm (D) x 11.6mm (T) x 43.9mm (LTL) |
Case material | Stainless steel |
Water Resistance | TBC, screw-down crown |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Black sector |
Lug Width | 20mm |
Straps | Black calfskin, steel pin buckle Steel five-link bracelet, folding clasp |
Movement | La Joux-Perret G-100, automatic |
Power Reserve | 68 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
Availability | Pre-orders from 23/04/2025; 14:00 BST, 23:00 AEST |
Price | A$3,490 £1,850 |