FRIDAY WIND DOWN: New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers and Greubel Forsey
Zach BlassThere has been a lot to cover of late and leading up to Watches & Wonders Geneva there is plenty more on the horizon. So today I want to highlight two new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers that recently launched, as well as the new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe that launched earlier today. Let’s get right into it.
New Bell & Ross BR 03-92 divers
The Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver is by no means a new design, but since its inception B&R have routinely expanded the collection with new dial configurations and case materials. It stands out within the saturated dive category thanks to its squared instrument case shape. I once owned a BR 03-92 Phantom, so I know first-hand that the blockish case actually wears well, even on smaller wrists, and the rubber straps are super comfortable. The latest entry into the collection brings forth a common colourway in the marketplace, but one that is surprisingly rare within the B&R catalogue: white. Its crisp white dial, which I would describe as a stone white, is meant to speak towards the icy side of aquatic exploration. As a brand known for prioritising legibility, it is surprising they do not indulge in white colorways more, but now that it has arrived in the BR 03-92 Diver collection it may just be the most readable configuration yet.
A polar opposite to the standard production white model above, the new limited-edition bronze model is a much warmer entry into the collection. It leverages the winning combination of a warm rosy bronze case paired with a chocolate brown bezel and dial. To their credit, the date window at 4:30 is colour matched to the dial in order to maintain the consistency of the warm aesthetic. For those less familiar, BR 03-92 dive watches are 42mm in diameter, 12.05mm thick, and 300m water-resistant with a screw-down crown. The timing bezel inserts are fashioned from anodized aluminum, a bit surprising considering how savvy the brand is with ceramic, and the watches are bundled with a rubber strap and a leather strap (in the case of the bronze model) or fabric strap (in the case of the white dial configuration). Each are powered by the Sellita-based automatic calibre BR-CAL.302, offering the wearer reliable timekeeping and 38 hours of power reserve.
Price: $3,990 USD (steel/white), $4,700 (bronze/brown, limited to 999 pieces)
The Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe features two new patents
A watch with a single escapement is already complex enough, to incorporate two makes things even more challenging. The Double Balancier Convexe that launched today, however, takes things even further. Their first double balancier, inclined at 20 degrees and patented in 2007, was already incredibly innovative and had never been seen before in watchmaking. But the new Greubel Forsey Double Balancier Convexe features two new patents.
Greubel Forsey explains: “The two balance wheels are separated and inclined at 30 degrees while only being linked by a constant spherical differentiator that provides constant power distribution to the mechanism. As a result, the watch ensures optimal accuracy while maintaining an ample 72-hour power reserve.”
The change of angle, along with the spherical differentiator, elevate an already sky-high horological experience – all of which can be drooled over dial-side by the wearer with the mechanics in full view. As expected with Greubel Forsey, each component is meticulously hand-finished to the highest standard.
“In the lower half of the Double Balancier Convexe, each regulating organ is sculpted individually,” Greubel Forsey continues. “The two balance wheels, although identical in shape and function, occupy different planes and thus offer a complementary spectacle. The centre bridge is in itself a showcase of the creative excellence of Greubel Forsey: multi-level, openworked and black polished with several interior angles, it carries the hour and minute hands above the movement. The inclined escapement platforms are straight-grained with hand-polished bevelling and countersinks, while the differential bridge and balance wheel bridges are flat black polished with further hand-polished bevelling.”
Internally there is a lot to explore, but externally there is a lot to love as well. Matching the 43.5mm titanium case, the watch is available on a sculpted titanium bracelet (alongside a black rubber option). Bracelets can follow all too familiar formats across the industry, but the titanium bracelet Greubel Forsey has constructed truly is one of a kind – a distinct and intriguing format and finish you cannot find anywhere else. It is basically top-tier movement finishing applied to the construction of a bracelet – it is really neat. The outer links that shoulder the centre link feature sunken frosted surfaces a touch darker in tone, matching the scalloped flanks found on the case. But with such originality and attention to detail, the watch of course commands quite a high price. If you want to know just how much, it is available upon request.
Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!
– Zach
Watch meme of the week: Is there really such a thing as an exit watch?
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When we were asked as a team to update our site bios, one of the questions we were asked to answer is what our “exit watch” would be. An exit watch, for those unfamiliar, is the watch or grail that if you ever acquired it you would never buy anything else – you’d obtained all you’d ever want so no more hunting. My answer was a Philippe Dufour Simplicity. As much as I hate to say it – because boy would I love to own one – I picked it because I will likely never enjoy the pleasure of having one in my collection. In picking such a lofty exit watch, what I was trying to express was that I will always have a desire to keep collecting and, as the above parody of Tom Brady’s return to the NFL suggests, every time I think I am finished, a new novelty reels me right back into the hunt.
Wrist shot of the week: John Goldberger flexes 🔥 vintage Ulysse Nardin
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If you needed a picture, to send to someone outside of the hobby, that explains why vintage watches carry so much appeal, this wrist-shot from legendary collector and author John Goldberger is a perfect snapshot to share. The Ulysse Nardin, perhaps, is not the usual suspect one would showcase, but that is what makes this photo that much better. With the aged gloss dial and large patinated radium numerals, this time-capsule on the wrist is in the sort of ideal condition that collectors drool over when it comes to vintage.
Time+Tide Weekend Watch Crossword #4 answers and winner of the “mystery prize”
For our fourth Weekend Watch Crossword, the theme was “WATCHing Movies”. We were glad to see that many of you, like us, are eagle-eyed watch spotters in film and media. Taking home the “mystery prize” for this week, the randomly selected winner is none other than Birmingham School of Jewellery horology graduate and watchmaker Lewis (@sorology). Keep an eye out for a DM from us on how to claim your prize!
Time+Tide Shop select of the week: Billstone cases and watch winders
With travel resuming, you will want a solid watch case to keep your timepieces safe while abroad. The Billstone Voyager is a lightweight watch roll that is designed for frequent flyers. The curved shape of the watch roll lets you squeeze it easily into your carry-on luggage. The edges of the watch roll are thick and strong to protect your watch even if your luggage is thrown around or stacked underneath other luggage. Between every watch is a partition so that your watches don’t rub against each other, and each removable watch cushion is secured to the main watch holder using click-on buttons – so you won’t accidentally drop your watch while opening the watch case.
Price: $85 USD, coming soon to the Time+Tide Shop & Showroom
Our favourite Time+Tide coverage of the week:
“This is about as rare as it gets.” The Omega Speedmaster that wowed the Antiques Roadshow
While the Antiques Roadshow always provides a reassuring form of comfort TV, it’s particularly satisfying when an unsuspecting punter hits the jackpot. That’s exactly what happened on a recent show when the Antiques Roadshow visited Ham House in Richmond, UK. A grey-haired guest on the show presented the show’s expert, Richard Price, with his brother’s watch that turned out to be an Omega Apollo Soyuz Speedmaster. Click here to find out just how much the rare Omega was valued at.
Uma Thurman, Rihanna, Dua Lipa and more confirm this Cartier remains the go-to power watch
You down with #BPE? After spotting Uma Thurman sporting one in Showtime’s new series Super Pumped: The Battle for Uber, we decided to compile all those who have shown Big Panthère Energy – exploring those who have flexed the Cartier style icon over the years and what the watch represents. It may be delicate in size, but it is certainly fierce in presence. Head here to read more.
HANDS-ON: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds stands out in the sea of green
Jaeger-LeCoultre are seemingly incapable of producing a watch that doesn’t melt the hearts and wallets of watch enthusiasts worldwide, as they have proven again with the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in a glowing green. The watch comes in three dial colours with matching straps including deep blue and luscious burgundy, but this green machine feels like a particular standout. Click here to read, or watch, our full hands-on review.