FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Grand Seiko continues to expand their catalogue while Patek Philippe clears theirs out
Zach BlassWe’re a few weeks into the new year, and while a lot has already happened the watch industry is not showing any signs of slowing down. Game-changing novelties and decisions are already happening, and with LVMH Watch Week starting next week and Watches & Wonders Geneva inching closer and closer you already know the pipeline is packed with new watches to explore. Speaking of LVMH Watch Week, Ricardo and I had a blast at a preview event this week – going hands-on with some exciting stuff we cannot discuss just yet. But the wait won’t be too long and, if Ricardo and I were both intrigued with what we saw, we imagine many of you will be pleased as well.
In terms of what we can chit-chat about now, this week Grand Seiko yet again introduced two new watches while Patek Philippe has stripped back their catalogue of over 20 references. Let’s dig in.
‘Another one’ – Grand Seiko drops another two limited editions
It may seem like Grand Seiko is being a bit hyperactive right now, and, to be fair, it is a bit of sensory overload from the Japanese manufacture. Fortunately for us, despite this frenzy of activity, standards aren’t slipping. The Grand Seiko SBGE275 (Spring Drive GMT) and SBGC247 (Spring Drive Chronograph GMT) have been introduced to commemorate the 20th anniversary of the first Grand Seiko GMT watch and the 15th anniversary of the first chronograph watch – and, as we know, Grand Seiko is never one to forget an anniversary. Both utilise snow-inspired forms of what appears to be the rock pattern dial texture to emulate the rough texture of the snow that can be seen high in the mountains in late winter and early spring.
The SBGE275 GMT version will be available as a limited edition of 1,500 at Grand Seiko Boutiques and selected Grand Seiko retailers worldwide in March 2022 (Price: $7,300 USD), while the SBGC247 Chronograph GMT version is a limited edition of 700 and will also be available at Grand Seiko Boutiques and selected Grand Seiko retailers worldwide in February 2022 ($11,000 USD). You can check out the full specifications of each here.
Is Grand Seiko releasing too many limited editions right now? It is definitely not an unreasonable question, but, if you are a devout enthusiast for the brand like me, then, at least creatively speaking, there is no such thing as too many Grand Seiko watches to explore.
Patek Phillipe clears over 20 references from their catalogue, including all of the 5711 references
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After what seemed like a retirement party that would never end, Patek Philippe has finally wiped the 5711 Nautilus from the catalogue. For most, it really just means instead of having 1% or less of a chance of scoring a 5711 at retail, your odds are now definitively at zero. But other models are now discontinued as well, throughout the various collections of the brand – including Calatrava, Complications, and more. As some bemoan the strategy of Grand Seiko, introducing what can be construed as too many references, Patek Philippe is becoming more exclusive than ever. Sure, it makes their timepieces that much more coveted in terms of secondary value and I can’t say it is bad for business or existing consumers. But for newcomers it just goes to show how fast you need to build a relationship with the brand to secure one of their pieces. At least with Grand Seiko, on the other hand, there are plenty of references to look into and score.
Hope you all have a wonderful weekend!
Zach
Watch meme of the week: The circle of judgement
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With the primary attraction, for most, in the Nautilus catalogue, the 5711, now retired across the board, this meme from @patekworld_ is a timely reminder of, perhaps, why Patek Philippe is discontinuing the model. The holy trinity manufacture has made it clear they do not want to be known as the Nautilus brand, and, to be fair, that is not what Patek Philippe watchmaking is all about. The Nautilus is not a symbol of the peak of Patek’s watchmaking prowess. While it is an incredibly well-made sports watch, it does not hold a candle, horologically speaking, to their grand complication watches. Therefore those flexing a Nautilus may look-down at Patek owners who do not have the pleasure of owning one of the most in-demand watches in the world, and, conversely, those who have acquired what traditionally defines Patek Philippe may harbour disdain towards the status-seekers who chased down what, in their mind, is not true Patekwatchmaking. As a mere mortal sans-Patek in their collection, I think any way you look at it this is a bit of a circle-jerk here. Whatever Patek you own, consider yourself fortunate – either way the brand remains the winner here.
Wrist shot of the week: My oh my! Monochromatic meets colour with Jason’s Royal Oak
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This pocket-shot reveals two things. First, I really want that sweater – its tone would be a nice pairing with my Grand Seiko SBGA413. Second, I especially look forward to the day where I can get a Royal Oak on my wrist and in my collection. Yeah there may be some Insta-filter magic at play here. But filter or not, the brushing on the Royal Oak really is a sight to behold – as rich as you’ll ever see. I really dig the contrast of such a colourful sleeve, with the monochromatic nature of a ruthenium dial Royal Oak. High fashion and especially high horology – well played Jason.
Recommended reading: Watchmaker Jeremy launches iWatchmaker and tackles the mass watchmaker exodus
I have the pleasure of being friends with Jeremy, who I met years ago at my first RedBar meetup in NYC. Jeremy, a watchmaker with experience working at the top tier of the industry, graduated from the Patek Philippe Institute of New York 2019 and currently serves as a production watchmaker for a holy trinity brand. As a young watchmaker, Jeremy has a very interesting perspective on watchmaking and the industry at large – a perspective he has recently began to share online through his new platform iWatchmaker. You can expect thoughtful and honest weekly articles on the industry and his journey as a watchmaker. His first published article tackles a very important subject: the impending mass watchmaker exodus. Unfortunately as the interest in watches increases, the number of trained watchmakers does not. This poses some interesting and unfortunate dilemmas for the future of our hobby. To read the full story, and Jeremy’s thoughts on the matter, click here.
Our favourite Time+Tide coverage of the week:
INTRODUCING: The Zenith Defy Revival A3642 resurrects an octagonal design unlike any other
Zenith reminded enthusiasts and buyers this week that they were well ahead of the octagonal steel sports craze, resurrecting their very own 1969 octagonal design that is unlike any other: the Zenith Defy Revival A3642 Limited Edition of 250 pieces. Head here for the full introduction.
VIDEO: The top watches of 2021 above $20k (Part 1)
Chances are if you’re about to buy one of these watches, you’ve got some serious cash to splash, and we’re just here to show you where the deep end of the pool is. Head here to read the full list, or click on the video above to watch Andrew run-through our selections.
The 10 highest paid tennis players and their watch brands
With the Australian Open underway, at least for those allowed into the country, it does not only mean championship tennis is back Down Under, but also champion wristwear. Whether through wins or endorsements, the tennis elite stands to make a ton of money each year – and fortunately Man of Many recently assembled a list of the 10 highest paid tennis players. So we decided to dig into the watch brands they represent, and find out which manufactures make the wrists of the 10 highest paid tennis players. You can check out the full list here.