The Franck Muller Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve ditches Art Deco for modern
Borna BošnjakWhen you think of a Franck Muller, you probably think of a uniquely shaped case, perhaps some stylised Art Deco numerals, and potentially loads of complications – and that’s no surprise, as it is the look that brought the brand to where it is today. But Franck Muller has also been taking a more avant-garde road as of late, and I’m not just talking about the cigarette lighter. Models like the Vanguard Colour Dreams and Grand Central Tourbillon Flash push the materials and tech envelope further while relying on the classic Franck Muller ethos of unique shape and complication. The latest in this line was unveiled recently, and it comes in the form of FM’s square case: the Franck Muller Long Island Evolution. Our focus today is on the simplest of this trio of new watches, the time-only 7 Days Power Reserve model, which seemingly doesn’t leverage many of the recognisable Franck Muller signatures – but that’s no bad thing.
The dial
Starting with the dial, long gone are the elongated Roman numerals of the regular Long Island model, with the printed floating Arabics having an almost stereoscopic 3D appearance as they sit on a transparent sapphire base. Stylistically, I’m immediately reminded of a rev counter of a mid-2000s sports car. Think 986-series Porsche Boxter. Slightly camp, but certainly in style as the ’90s and noughties are coming back. The curved main sapphire crystal and sapphire dial also give a partial view of some of the movement components, namely the skeletonised barrel at 12 o’clock that provides that long power reserve.
Most surprising for a watch that’s not really all that sporty on paper is how good the lume is. There are no applied indices of any kind, and yet, thanks to the sapphire dial, the glow of the printed numerals and hands actually lights up some of the components like the motion work.
The case
Other than a new look for the dial, the biggest change, as indicated by the name, is the reworked Long Island case. Franck Muller is especially proud of the new inner case construction that “offers added security and shock protection to the movement”, and “enables the sapphire crystal protecting the display of the watch to be attached to the flange without any visible fixing screws.” To be frank (see what I did there?), I’m not quite sure why this new construction is so good for those two things in particular, but it does give the watch a cool, layered look. The curved main sapphire sits over the anodised aluminium inner case, which in turn flanks the aforementioned sapphire dial. It’s all quite complex, but doesn’t feel over-designed.
If you’re familiar with the Long Island and look at the profile of the Evolution, you might be surprised by how similar the two actually are. You’ve still got the curvaceous shape and tacked-on lugs, but the vibe of the watch changes completely. It’s a great show of just how much a new material can truly change a watch, as the black PVD surfaces of the titanium Long Island Evolution case completely transform it. Dimensions are a reasonable 33.7mm in width and 45.3mm top to bottom (with the lugs sticking out a little further), and a thickness of 12.2mm. Having said that, the curved case and rectangular shape make the Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve wear a lot bigger than the measurements suggest.
The strap
The 7 Days Power Reserve is fitted with a green rubber-rimmed, black alligator leather strap closing with a folding titanium clasp. It makes perfect choice stylistically, though I wonder whether there were any other reasons to choose a rubber-backed leather strap, as the watch’s 30-metre water resistance means it won’t be undertaking any aquatic adventures anytime soon.
The movement
As suggested by the brand’s press material, the whole reason for redesigning the case and adding an inner one was to better fit and protect the shaped movements. In this case, the movement is a variant of the FM 17XX we’ve seen across a range of Franck Muller pieces with the extra-long, seven-day power reserve, getting the MVT FM 1745 denomination here. It’s not as openworked as on the Vanguard Colour Dreams mentioned in the intro, but it does feature some skeletonisation, mainly on the going train that’s visible through the display caseback. Overall, the style of decoration is contemporary, but I do feel like there are certain traditional elements that are missing given Franck Muller’s haute horlogerie standard, such as interior angles and more pronounced bridge bevelling.
Spec-wise, the highlight is certainly the impressive power reserve, helped by the long mainspring visible through the skeletonised barrel (of which there are actually two of), as well as the slow, 18,000vph beat of the balance wheel.
The verdict
You’ll have a hard time placing this watch in any particular category. It’s not a sports watch given the leather strap and low water resistance, nor is it a dress watch given its design. Much like other Franck Muller designs, it sits in this high-end space where a watch doesn’t really need to fit into a category in order to appeal to its wearer. If you want a sports watch, buy a Submariner. If you want a dress watch, get a Tank. The Long Island Evolution, and Franck Muller more generally, simply won’t be on the radar of those looking to simply tick off category boxes. As a titanium three-hander, the price can seem pretty extreme if you’re purely looking at on-paper specs, but if you’re buying what Franck Muller is selling, there’s only one place to go. So while its visual cues may not match the instantly recognisable Franck Muller form factor, its purpose is very much in line with the brand.
Franck Muller Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve pricing and availability
The Long Island Evolution collection is limited to the Asia Pacific region, and the 7 Day Power Reserve is limited to 300 pieces. Price: A$72,000 (~US$48,000)
Brand | Franck Muller |
Model | Long Island Evolution 7 Days Power Reserve |
Reference | LI 33 S6 SQT NR BR (VR) |
Case Dimensions | 33.7mm (W) x 12.2mm (T) x 45.3mm (L) |
Case Material | Black PVD titanium and green anodised aluminium |
Water Resistance | 30 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Sapphire with printed numerals |
Strap | Alligator leather, PVD black titanium pin clasp |
Movement | MVT FM 1745, in-house, manual winding |
Power Reserve | 168 hours (7 days) |
Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
Availability | 300 pieces |
Price | A$72,000 |