Formex’s new Essence Ceramica Skeleton boasts the world’s first micro-adjustable ceramic bracelet – and it’s under $5,000!
Zach Blass- Formex is celebrating its 25th anniversary with the new Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC collection.
- The brand is known for its use of high-tech materials, with a catalogue that offers COSC-certified watches starting at US$1,650.
- The four configurations are limited to 88 pieces each, debuting the world’s first ceramic bracelet with micro-adjust.
In our recent Rolex predictions article and video, we joked about how we can speculate as wildly as we want, but that the safest bet is a new dial colour. Rolex has always been known to play it safe – but it would seem that, in a watch market that is trending downwards, the big box brands are all looking to minimise risk and just tweak existing things rather than reinvent the wheel. This is not to say more established brands are not doing newsworthy innovations – just take Audemars Piguet’s new perpetual calendar calibre with an all-in-one-crown adjustment system – but we have largely seen big brands being given feedback along the lines of “give us micro-adjustment” and never really materialising anything. This is why I have to give major props to Swiss independent brand Formex because, for its 25th birthday, it is debuting the world’s first ceramic bracelet with on-the-fly micro-adjustment in its new Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC collection.
So, what does this world’s first ceramic bracelet with micro-adjust really offer? Owners, on the fly, will be able to adjust the size of the bracelet in four 1.25mm increments for a total of 5mm of precious adjustment. For comparison, Tudor’s widely lauded T-fit micro-adjustment clasp offers 8mm of adjustment across five positions (1.6mm per notch). The primary means to engage with the system is a trigger adjacent to the Formex logo engraved into the clasp. Once pulled, the bracelet can be pulled back across its four notches to size. To move the bracelet back in, you can simply push the bracelet back in. From my experience with it, you can really feel each notch as you pull the bracelet out. Moving inwards, however, it can be difficult to not push too hard and not send it back to its starting point. Nonetheless, if you move it too far back in you can easily step it back out to where you want.
Having held the watch at its launch event in NYC, the bracelet and case, especially at its price point, is exceptionally well-finished – and ceramic is much more difficult to brush and polish than metal. In the same manner that Audemars Piguet has worked to make its ceramic finishing on a Royal Oak in line with its metal offerings, Formex’s ceramic finishing is equal to what you would find on its steel offerings. It is insane for a watch positioned under US$5,000. The screw-down crown-secured 100-metre water-resistant case also carries very wrist-friendly dimensions, measuring 41mm in diameter, 11.2mm thick, and 46.2mm lug-to-lug.
Inside and exhibited is a Sellita SW200-1 SC that has been handsomely skeletonised more so for the dial’s benefit. It’s a 41-hour automatic movement that is COSC-certified, meaning it has been regulated and tested to run within +6/-4 seconds per day.
There are four dial variants to choose from. The first three are the “Stradale” variants, with the Stradale offering blackened hands and indices with white Super-LumiNova; the Stradale Blue offering blue Super-LumiNova within the blackened hands and indices; and the Stradale Violet, my personal favourite, with purple Super-LumiNova within its blackened hands and indices. The last and most expensive option (which is only US$150 more than the three Stradale variants, mind you) is the Ceramica Skeleton COSC – GT that utilises rose gold hands and indices.
For a ceramic watch that is very handsomely finished and debuts a patented, world-first ceramic bracelet with micro-adjustment, I cannot fathom how Formex is able to price this watch below US$5,000. In my, let’s say, “advanced collection”, I (while very impressed) will not say I am personally rushing to score one of the four variants that are each limited to 88 pieces. I would have been tempted had Formex done a solid, simple black lacquer dial in favour of the openworked aesthetic which isn’t really my thing. Then again, while I do not have a crystal ball, Formex did not go through the trouble of developing this to end it with these four limited editions.
I imagine the brand, which has a wide range of dials including malachite stone dials, will expand this collection down the line. Some will not consider the Sellita movement very glamorous, but keep in mind that it has been openworked and that it is COSC-certified. So, you are getting a super robust workhorse that offers higher performance at a lower cost, which ultimately contributes to the Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC being priced under US$5,000. It would be hard to find a better daily wearer ceramic watch, in a ceramic bracelet, than this.
Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC pricing and availability
The Formex Essence Ceramica Skeleton COSC collection will be available for order beginning March 21, 2025, as a limited edition of 88 pieces per version. Shipments are expected to commence in July 2025. Price: US4,250 (Stradale), US$4,390 (GT)
| Brand | Formex |
| Model | Essence Ceramic Skeleton COSC |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 11.2mm (T) x 46.2mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Black ceramic, grade 2 titanium container |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Openworked |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Strap | Black ceramic bracelet, micro-adjustment clasp, quick-release |
| Movement | SW200-1 SC, automatic, COSC-certified |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | 88 pcs. per configuration, deliveries begin in July 2025 |
| Price | US4,250 (“Stradale” variants) US$4,390 (“GT” edition) |