The FLX004 is the most minimalist take on a skin diver by Fleux yet
Time+TideEd Cho’s Fleux has been around for a couple of years and was founded from his passion for vintage skin divers. So far, he’s made three versions of them – the FLX001 and FLX002 released in 2023 and the FLX003 from 2024 – and we’ve covered all of them for good reason. Each version paid homage to iconic divers, starting in the 1960s and going well into the 1980s, with de facto tool watch specs. Ed’s latest release, the Fleux FLX004, is something else entirely. It embraces an entirely minimalist ethos, and invites us to appreciate pared-back designs. It’s a conversation starter piece that will look familiar but also won’t at the same time.
The case
Ed is consistent in many aspects, and case design is one of the first things that comes to mind. It’s the exact same as his first three releases, so nothing here will be new. The FLX004’s case is purely that of a skin diver, with the traditional straight cut between the lugs, a mostly brushed treatment, and a straightforward profile. The mid-case is thin and seamlessly transitions into the lugs that turn down dramatically towards the wrist. It’s a construction that looks fantastic and makes this watch (and other skin divers) so comfortable to wear. As you can see from the photos, the FLX004 has a bulbous profile, à la Rolex Bubbleback, which endows it with noticeable wrist presence. The fluffy aspect of the case is further emphasised by way of a polished ring onto which the caseback screws down.
Moreover, thin polished chamfers on the upper sections of the case help visually reinforce the unique profile of the case and the angular curvature of its midsection and of the lugs. A friction-fit, bidirectional bezel sits flush on it and is composed of a sterile, glossy aluminum insert. For decoration, we only see a C3 Old Radium LumiNova dot that Ed has used previously. And if you’re thinking, I’ve seen this before from Unimatic – it’s called a Bund-style bezel insert and was not invented by the Italian brand!
From a dimension standpoint, the case measures 39mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, a chunky 14mm thick including the domed Hesalite crystal, and has a 20mm lug width. A small crown of 5.9mm screws down and together with a screw-down case-back, we get 200 metres of water resistance.
The dial
When looking at the dial of the Fleux FLX004, you’ll probably have many questions – and that’s a good thing. Ed wants to engage in a conversation with his potential customers and figure out what is essential in a watch (and potentially, life) and what isn’t. We’ve already gotten more functional versions of skin divers, with more information offered up by the dials and bezels. The FLX004 is something different and singular, as it is devoid of classical design elements of tool watches, such as minute hash-marks and hour markers. Though it has the essentials to tell time: a broad-arrow handset and a running seconds hand.
The main visual treat on the dial is the sector that reminds me of Gérald Genta’s Universal Genève Polerouter from 1954, and so does the silver ring surrounding the center section of the dial. Though the UG did have vertical lines and hour markers, but I digress. The two contrast against the black, glossy sections of the dial and work superbly with the polished hands. The branding is printed in an old radium color to match the lume, but here for the first time the “diver down” brand logo only appears on the crown. Because of the crosshair, the branding is split in two and appears in opposing quadrants.
The strap
The Fleux FLX004 is shipped with a black SeaQual sailcloth strap made of recycled ocean plastics, a stainless steel buckle, a leather backing, and quick-release spring-bars. As it is true with all SeaQual straps, they’re stiff out of the box but improve over time.
The movement
Another thing with the FLX004 that stays the same as the three previous models is the choice of movement: a Seiko NH38A that ticks at 21,600vph (3Hz) and has 41 hours of power reserve. It’s no example of haute horlogerie and does contribute to the watch’s significant thickness, but like a tractor, it is reliable and notoriously easy to service.
Fleux FLX004 pricing and availability
The Fleux FLX004 is available for immediate purchase from the brand’s website. Price: US$499
| Brand | Fleux |
| Model | FLX004 |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal(s) | Domed hesalite |
| Dial | Black |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | SeaQual recycled plastic, steel pin buckle |
| Movement | SII NH38A, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$499 |