The Fleux FLX003 is a modern, vintage skin diver
Time+TideVintage-inspired skin divers became a trend a few years ago, with many brands releasing their own iterations of it. Ed Cho is one of those passionate about the style, and remains so to this day. Cho founded his Toronto-based brand a couple years back, and the Fleux FLX003 is his third release. The models that preceded it – the FLX001 and FLX002 – were also vintage-inspired skin divers. By releasing this new model, Ed wanted to share yet another version of a modern, vintage-inspired dive watch made for amateur divers, which was the original intention for this style of watch, nodding to a new set of icons from the 1960s and 1970s.
The case
The case of the FLX003 is the same as the one found on the FLX001 and FLX002. By its design, it indeed refers back to the golden age of skin divers that all had the following characteristics in common: an unprotected screw-down crown, a smaller case (compared to that of the professional divers), a bulbous case-back, and straight-cut lugs. And that’s exactly what we find here. The Fleux FLX003 commands a decent wrist presence – especially vertically – a phenomenon which is offset by its somewhat short lug-to-lug. The full dimensions are as follows: 38mm in diameter, 47mm lug-to-lug, 14mm thick, and with a 20mm lug width. The FLX003 is tall, and that is in part due to the domed piece of vintage inspired Hesalite crystal that in itself summarises the entire philosophy of skin divers from the 1960s. The case, furthermore, comes with a sober alternation of brushed and polished surfaces which make it look good in a variety of situations.
What is different with the Fleux compared to the models it drew inspiration from is the water resistance. The OG skin divers used to be endowed with 50 to 150 meters of water resistance which was deemed enough for regular folks like you and I to snorkel and dive. But the Fleux FLX003 comes with 200 meters of water resistance thanks to a screw-down crown and caseback. The crown is quite small (5.8mm), as it was common on skin divers, yet it’s easy to grab and operate to set the time. Furthermore, the FLX003 comes with a bi-directional, friction-fit countdown bezel with an aluminum inserteen.
The dial
The key design element of the FLX003 is the massive inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock that pays homage to the 1960s Omega Seamaster 300 Big Triangle ref. 165.024, commissioned by the British Ministry of Defense (MOD) for military use. The triangle is what made Ed fall for the Seamaster 300, a model routinely homaged by other brands still to this day, and what prompted him to integrate this design on its third release. On the dial we also find the 3-6-9 configuration found on the aforementioned Seamaster, along with the iconic broad arrow handset.
Being inspired by military divers, the Fleux FLX003 comes with discreet branding with the brand name printed below the inverted triangle, its logo, and some text located below the pinion. Lastly, the old radium Super-LumiNova C3, which was generously applied here, contributes to endowing the FLX003 with strong vintage vibes.
The strap
The Fleux FLX003 is shipped on a Seaqual strap made of recycled ocean plastic that’s sturdy in construction, but soft to the touch, showing a sail cloth-like texture on top and a soft leather backing. This strap is equipped with quick-release spring bars, and a branded stainless steel buckle. By its design, this strap makes the FLX003 look good in a variety of situations, though I would suggest switching to a fully waterproof strap whenever you find yourself in an ocean.
The movement
Ed opted for the Seiko NH38A that beats at 21,600vph and comes with 41 hours of power reserve, a movement known for being robust and durable, and one that can easily be serviced by any competent watchmaker.
Fleux FLX003 pricing and availability
The Fleux FLX003 will be available for immediate purchase on the brand’s website starting September 19th, 2024, at 11am EST. Price: US$499
| Brand | Fleux |
| Model | FLX003 |
| Case Dimensions | 38mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 200 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Domed Hesalite |
| Dial | Black |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | Black Seaqual strap, pin buckle |
| Movement | Seiko NH38A, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | September 19th 2024 |
| Price | US$499 |